Saving face

It’s never too late to start taking care of your skin, but there are a few bad habits to avoid, writes Nicole Economos.

Avoid spraying perfume on areas exposed to the sun, including the neck, jawline and chest, or risk hard-to-treat discolouration.

We are all guilty of straying from good skincare practice from time to time, but slip-ups that become habits are often behind many common issues such as acne and rosacea. Melbourne-based dermatologist Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan says that instead of relying on products at the damage control stage, putting in place preventive measures such as a balanced routine will help you maintain optimal skin.

“Skin health should be adding ingredients and actives to make the machinery [our skin], which is already so well-equipped, work better,” says Gunatheesan, founder of practice ODE Dermatology.

Over-cleansing the skin

Over-cleansing and using the wrong products can cause microtraumas and break down your skin’s acid mantle, an invisible barrier of fatty acids that protects against irritation and infection.

For this reason, Gunatheesan warns against trying to achieve that “squeaky clean feeling” through excessive cleansing and exfoliating.

Unless you have oily skin, the average person should only cleanse at night – Gunatheesan recommends double cleansing – because too much exposure to water and soap can also dry the skin.

As for what type of cleanser to look for, clinical education manager of skincare brand Alpha-H, LeeAnne Leslie, says it’s best to steer clear of foaming cleansers, which “don’t respect the integrity of the skin, and leave it devoid of naturally occurring lipids” that help prevent dehydration, flakiness and breakouts.

Gunatheesan agrees, recommending a creamy cleanser that is rich in ceramides to help moisturise and strengthen the skin barrier.

Pimple popping

It may seem like the quickest solution, but instead of risking the spread of inflammation and scarring by picking at spots, Gunatheesan suggests dunking a flannel into warm water with Himalayan salt and placing it over the pimple. Or, mix over-the-counter Benzac with a touch of salt to make an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial paste to put on for three minutes. Alternatively, lactic or salicylic acid put on with a cotton bud can do the trick.

Mixing and matching

Liverpool Hospital dermatologist and UNSW lecturer Dr Deshan Sebaratnam says that assuming better skin can only be achieved using costly products is one of the biggest mistakes people make. The less-is-more approach is best in establishing a purposeful routine, with expert advice if you are unsure.

Another common downfall is not committing long enough to a regimen or set of products. Disrupting your routine regularly brings a risk of skin sensitivity. Gunatheesan recommends sticking to products for two months, as it takes about 28 days for the skin to rejuvenate from the bottom layer to the top (unless an allergic reaction occurs).

Gunatheesan says it’s important to layer products correctly for the ingredients to be effective. In the morning, gently cleanse (a splash of water will do), before applying a serum such as vitamin C or niacinamide, then moisturiser and sunscreen before makeup. As a general rule, leave a few minutes after your serum before adding moisturiser as your skin needs time for absorption.

Try to stick to using one range

“By using products from the same brand, you can assume they would have formulated the science so they work synergistically,” Gunatheesan says.

Underestimating the power of sun protection

While many of us search for miracle ingredients to combat hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and ageing spots, Leslie says that using an SPF 50+ sunscreen is the “best defence” against skin cancer, and a non-negotiable age-defying skincare product.

“Approximately 80 per cent of extrinsic, or external ageing is caused by exposure to the sun. UV light contributes to the degradation of collagen, a protein that provides structure, and a vital support network that keeps skin firm and wrinkle-free.”

Sleep

Many of us stay up late binge-watching Netflix, but Gunatheesan says for skin health, it’s ideal to hit the hay by 11pm (preferably with a silk pillowcase). Gunatheesan says going to sleep by 11pm ensures your shut-eye is deep enough for best reparative results, including rebuilding collagen. You can spend money on many collagen products, but if you’re not getting enough sleep it’s a waste. It is also important to eat healthily to reduce inflammation in your gut, reduce stress levels, exercise, and not smoke.

“[Sleep is] when so much of your skin detoxification and repair happens. We are evolutionarily driven to go through the repair process that mirrors melatonin, depending how deep your sleep is.

“Those who have broken sleep are more prone to issues like rosacea and dry skin,” says Gunatheesan, adding that she often sees these conditions in shift workers and new mums.

She says that training yourself to flip your head on your pillow throughout the night will mean less pulling on one side of your face as you age.

Makeup mayhem

The urge to hop straight into bed after a late night is understandable, but skin breathability is vital for the cells of our epidermis to turn over. “Makeup will suffocate it with an artificial layer of debris, rather than working its natural detox,” Gunatheesan says.

“Some makeup has fragrances and botanicals in it, and if you wake up with it, you can sensitise your skin when you venture into the sun.”

To remove makeup, and the grime and environmental pollution that sticks to it, double cleanse with micellar water and a ceramide-rich cleanser.

Use a face cloth or microfibre tool only once a week. “As we age, our elasticity and our distensibility is not as great, so if you are stretching your skin out aggressively every night while scrubbing, you will have invisible microtraumas that compromise your skin barrier.”

Makeup brushes and tools should be deep-cleaned weekly.

Investing only in your face

It’s vital to focus on other areas that become more susceptible as we age, including our hands, chest and neck.

“The skin is thinner so it is impacted by the elements around us. Put a little bit of residue of the products you are using on these areas, and start it early – a lot of my clients wish they had,” Gunatheesan says.

Avoid spraying perfume on areas exposed to the sun, including the neck, jawline and chest, or risk hard-to-treat discolouration.

“I would recommend prevention by putting it on your stomach, backs of your knees or even clothing: places not exposed to sun.”