Japan’s clean, green island paradise
Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, is a breath of fresh air, a world away from the crowds experienced elsewhere.
Shikoku seldom makes it onto most international visitors’ travel itineraries of Japan, even though the island has a lot to offer. Major events such as Tokushima’s annual Awa Odori Matsuri, Japan’s equivalent of the Rio Carnival, bring in the crowds in August.
Matsuyama’s venerable Dōgo Onsen is a magnet for hot spring fans. And every three years, Shikoku’s Kagawa Prefecture co-hosts the Setouchi Triennale, a superb contemporary arts festival covering nearby islands such as Naoshima and Shōdo-shima.
But beyond the headline attractions, there are many under-the-radar experiences and destinations. Search out the sustainability projects in the zero-waste village of Kamikatsu.
Head to remote Iya Valley to stay in an 18th-century thatched farmhouse and to raft the upper reaches of Yoshino River.
Hike part, or all, of the island’s 88 temple pilgrimage route, or join surfers along the rugged southern Pacific coast, between the spectacular capes of Muroto-misaki and Ashizuri-misaki.
This is Japan far from the madding crowds.
Go if you like . . .
Chiiori, a beautifully restored traditional thatched house and atmospheric base for exploring Iya Take the 2.7km cable car to mountain-top Tairyū-ji Valley. The staggeringly steep gorges there are in Tokushima Prefecture, the longest ropeway in spanned by wisteria vine bridges, amazing feats of Western Japan. ancient engineering. The least-visited bridges are Search out the secluded Oku Iya Ni-jū Kazurain Higashi-Iya. bashi vine bridges, hanging side by side over the
Shikoku is also a sustainability pioneer of Iya Valley. ¯ofOJapan.A45-minutedrivesouthwestofTokushimaExplorethefascinatinginterior zu-jō, in is Kamikatsu, a village that has been aiming to Ehime Prefecture – one of Japan’s most generate zero waste since 2003. authentically reconstructed castles, an
Visitors can see its efforts in action at the original survivor from Japan’s Edo period microbrewery, restaurant and general store Rise & (1603 to 1867).
Win Brewing Co, occupying a building made from Swim or surf in the warm waters off totally recycled elements, and Hotel WHY, which is kinohama, Shikoku’s most magnificent sandy part of the village’s innovative zero waste centre. beach, on the road to the southern cape of Ashizuri-misaki.
Climb the gently rounded, 1955-metre peak, Tsurugi-san. It is Shikoku’s second-highest mountain and one of Japan’s 100 famous mountains.
Rent a bicycle in Shimanto to explore the beautiful valley of the Shimanto-gawa, Japan’s last remaining undammed river.
Honshū outdoor adventures temple pilgrimages nature artistic discoveries timeless traditions
Shikoku is famous for its religious pilgrimage around 88 temples connected with venerable For more than 1300 years, pilgrims have arrived in Buddhist monk Kōbō Daishi.Most of the pilgrims Shikoku by boat. That leisurely method of complete the route by motorised transport, rather reaching the island is still possible with ferry than on foot. routes from ports on Honshū and Kyūshū.
If you take up the challenge to walk or cycle the Alternatively, there is a train from Okayama 1400km route ¯youSetoOwillbeddowninsomeveryoff-viatheoneraillinkoverthe hashi bridge, radar Shikoku locations. plus highway buses from the mainland, and flights
Venture deeper into Shikoku’s interior to find to one of the four prefectures’ major airports. ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
Getting there When to go April and November
Summer can be stiflingly hot and winter sees snow on the higher peaks. April is the best month for cherry blossoms, November for autumn colours.
First-time tips
Buy the All Shikoku Rail Pass (shikokurailwaytrip.com) for travel around the island on Japan Rail trains. The pass can be bought for threeto seven days, and also offers discounts on some ferry and bus lines.
If you are planning to attend Tokushima’s famous dance festival, Awa Odori Matsuri, in August, book well in advance for accommodation in and around the city.
Though the train is good for general island travel, highlights including the Iya Valley, the southern capes of Muroto-misaki and Ashizurimisaki, and many of the 88 temples have no nearby train stations and tricky bus connections, so consider hiring a car to reach them.
Amazing crowd-free experiences
This is an extract from Offbeat, reproduced with permission from Lonely Planet © 2022.