Pork rillettes from Apero
Apero is a star of Auckland’s food scene and its famed charcuterie selection takes some beating, writes Delaney Mes.
Auckland’s Karangahape Rd has slowly but surely been refining itself over the past few years, while retaining a bit of grit and plenty of charm.
In the middle of this iconic strip sits Apero, a wine bar that is so much more than just a wine bar.
At the helm of Apero is chef Leslie Hottiaux and her partner Ismo (Mo) Koski, who takes care of the wine side of things.
With backgrounds in some of Auckland’s finest dining establishments, it is certainly no surprise that the food here has people talking.
Indeed, in 2016 Hottiaux represented New Zealand and Australia in the San Pellegrino Young Chef of the Year competition in Milan.
Her French heritage is evident in the food – rillettes, charcuterie, and homemade sausage, available by the metre, to name just some. It’s the perfect food to share while trying
something new and interesting in your glass – expertly recommended by the charming and hospitable Mo.
Whether you prefer a crisp white from Greece or an orange wine from Australia, this is the kind of place to go and explore, while still feeling perfectly comfortable.
And as far as the food goes, you could sit at the bar for a pre-dinner bite or while away the evening with a full three-course meal – the desserts alone are worth a special visit.
It’s the charcuterie that Hottiaux feels they’re most famous for, though, and the classic pork rillettes recipe that follows gives a nod to technique, demonstrating simplicity and complexity.
Just like Apero itself, really.
Pork rillettes
Serves 8 as an entree
❚ 1kg pork shoulder, deboned, skin off
❚ 1kg pork belly, skin off
❚ 750ml bottle dry white wine
❚ 1 cup duck fat (available from specialist supermarkets and food stores)
❚ 3 teaspoons flaky sea salt
❚ 4 sprigs fresh thyme
❚ onion, diced
❚ 2 cloves garlic
❚ Pinch of black pepper
❚ Drizzle of good-quality sherry vinegar
Preheat oven to 100 degrees Celsius.
Cut pork shoulder and belly into 5cm cubes. Place in a heavybottomed ovenproof pot or a deep dish. Add wine, duck fat, salt, thyme, onion, garlic and pepper. Mix together with clean hands. Cover with foil and cook for around 12 hours. (You can leave it in the oven overnight.)
Once the meat is cooked (it will fall apart when you touch it), leave it to cool down for 30 minutes. Make sure you leave the meat in the liquid, otherwise it will dry out.
When cool enough to handle, transfer the meat to a large mixing bowl, setting the liquid aside for later. Using two forks, shred the meat. Make sure it is not too mushy – shredding along the grain is the secret.
Try some meat to check seasoning, add more if you need, and then add sherry vinegar. Blend reserved liquid gently until it becomes a whitish colour and pour on top of the meat – approximately one-third of the liquid is enough.
Divide the mixture among several small containers (or one big one if you prefer) and add a touch more liquid on top. Wrap each container in plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator and let them sit for at least 1 day before serving. The best way to eat rillettes is with fresh bread (sourdough or baguette), wholegrain mustard and pickles.
Chef’s notes: You need 2 days to make rillettes. This recipe will keep for around 1 week in the refrigerator.
❚ Extract reproduced with permission from New Zealand Restaurant Cookbook by Delaney Mes; recipe © Apero. Photography © Liz Clarkson,
2017. Published by Penguin NZ; RRP $50. Out now.