New Zealand rediscovered
Lorna Thornber reminds us we don’t need to look much further than our own backyard.
When I was living overseas, I lost count of the number of times people told me how wonderful it must have been to grow up in New Zealand.
In this post-Lord of the Rings world, it seems everyone who’s never been here imagines it as a snowcapped-mountained, virginforested, possibly elve-inhabited realm where fantastical adventures are found around every corner. Their praises made me proud, of course, but more regretful. Despite having lived here until my early 20s, I’d only seen a small portion of the country. Had never set eyes on – let alone scaled – Mt Doom (Mt Nga¯ uruhoe); never skied at Mordor (Whakapapa); never strolled alongside the Anduin (Waiau) River.
I was convinced that the truly exciting and extraordinary could only be found elsewhere.
But a few months of living in Australia cured me of that. I discovered that eternally blue skies really could get old. I missed the variety of our landscapes and vegetation, the distinctive changes in the seasons, the generally humble nature of the people. Later, in London, this longing for home became homesickness of a particularly acute kind. I loved the vibrancy of the city and exploring the cobblestoned streets of Europe, but came to realise that I felt most alive – and at peace – in the great outdoors. That I couldn’t possibly live forever in a landlocked metropolis where the easiest-toreach beaches were strewn with pebbles and donkey doo.
And so I moved back. It has taken time to readjust to the slower pace of life here (outside of work, that is) and on rainy days I often find myself wishing we had even a fraction of London’s shows, exhibitions, museums and galleries. But I am discovering that New Zealand’s treasures are of a different, but no less special, kind and am looking forward to being able to explore them properly.
Work commitments have meant I have only taken a few trips so far – a short cruise down the east coast of the North Island and quick trips to Christchurch, Akaroa, Queenstown, Milford Sound and the East Cape. But each has been just as eye-opening and enjoyable as my trips overseas. Just in different kind of way. They have certainly been far more relaxed than my European trips; focused mostly on soaking up our spectacular scenery and indulging in our undeniably world-class food and wine.
Queenstown, I discovered, is just as remarkable as the mountains that form its backdrop – and the guidebooks – claim. Yes, it can be touristy and expensive but there are cheaper accommodation options and some of the best experiences (wandering through the lakeside gardens, hiking to Roys Peak and biking the road to Glenorchy) are free.
On a recent weekend in Te Kaha, I felt like I’d stepped through a porthole to another place entirely. A sun-kissed land where the winding coastal highway was often mine alone; where Ma¯ ori make up the majority of the population and marae are more common than churches; where people ride their horses into town and life in general passes at a blissfully languid pace. I returned to the rat race renewed, determined to get back in the nottoo-distant future to explore the driftwood-strewn bays properly, venture into Raukumara Forest Park and try to persuade the local fisherpeople to tell me how they catch all that delicious paua and crayfish.
New Zealand has featured in so many best destination lists in recent years that it’s easy to become a bit blase about our natural assets. And while it may not be Middle Earth, there’s no denying our scenery is unparalleled and provides ample opportunity for adventure and time out. So why not make 2018 the year you finally get to those corners of the country you’ve always been meaning to? Hope to see you on the road.