Dubai: Bright lights, big city
Kiwis share their experiences of life in the city-emirate with Lorna Thornber.
When Vanessa Abernethy moved to Dubai in 2005, the concept of a woman sponsoring her husband to live there was fairly new. A corporate lawyer originally from the Bay of Islands, Abernethy had been headhunted for a job in the city-emirate and was immediately captivated by its energy and ambition. Here, she thought, was a ‘‘city on steroids’’ hurtling towards a future vision that others might deem outlandish or impossible. And she was excited to be along for the ride.
‘‘This was clearly a city that wanted to do everything bigger and better than elsewhere,’’ she says. ‘‘The city was opening its arms to so many expats … I felt like I was going to be part of making this fastgrowing city even better. This was a place I could make a real contribution to.’’
A poster city for the old adage that ‘‘if you build it, they will come’’, Dubai has grown from a small town dependent upon pearl diving and trade into a mega-metropolis within a matter of decades. The discovery of oil in the 1960s changed its fortunes instantaneously but it wasn’t until the late 1990s that it began to make the extent of its ambitions known.
The opening of the seven-star Burj Al Arab hotel on a private island of reclaimed land in 1999 was among the first signs the United Arab Emirates’ now largest city intended to expand the realms of possibility. The world’s tallest building, artificial islands shaped like a palm tree and world map and the world’s first ‘‘robocop’’ followed – and plans for self-flying taxis are well underway.
The economic downturn stalled many construction projects and left many expats without work but things seem to be back on track. In 2017, more than 91 per cent of the population of nearly three million were expatriates, Dubai government figures show.
Many New Zealanders are lured by the high, tax-free incomes, company packages including accommodation and free flights home every year, sunny climate and the chance to live like a high-roller for a bit (think weekends spent popping Champagne bottles at super clubs, dancing the night away with new friends at giant pool parties and eating out at restaurants run by international celebrity chefs). For some Kiwis though, the reality proves rather different.
A ‘‘significantly better’’ lifestyle While some may say Dubai is so different to New Zealand as to be almost incomparable, the Abernethys found settling in a breeze. Of course, this was significantly aided by the fact that Vanessa’s office had taken care of their visas and set them up with a serviced apartment and rental car until they could find their own. They’d even organised their liquor licences.
Within four weeks of their arrival they’d found the brand new villa that would become their home, bought cars, and were inundated with invitations from fellow expats to dinner, drinks and Dubai’s legendary all-you-can-eat-and-drink Friday brunches.
‘‘Everyone was very welcoming,’’ Abernethy, 45, says. ‘‘I guess because we are all expats and we have all left our friends and families behind. I find everyone puts themselves out there to meet new people and welcome newcomers.’’
Thirteen and a half years later the couple – who now have two children aged 4 and 8 – believe their lifestyle is ‘‘significantly better’’ than it would have been if they’d remained in New Zealand.
While Abernethy’s high-income friends in Auckland are having trouble saving, she and her husband are leading the lives of luxury Dubai is renowned for. They have a fivebedroom villa with a pool just eight minutes’ drive from the main financial centre and employ a driver and live-in nanny/housekeeper.
She earns between two and three times as much as she would in New Zealand, tax free, so her husband is able to look after the children fulltime, and she reckons the education and health systems put New Zealand’s to shame.
Her biggest concerns if they were to move home would be ‘‘the New Zealand education system and the effect ‘tall poppy syndrome’ and bullying may have on our kids’’, she says, adding that neither really exist in Dubai.
‘‘The education my children are getting here is world class.’’
She says it’s a misconception that life in Dubai is restrictive, noting that alcohol is widely available and she dresses the same as she did in New Zealand.
‘‘I feel completely able to live my
life as I have always done. The locals are very tolerant and very accepting and do not often impose their beliefs on the general population. If you live your life and do not disturb others they have no issues.’’
Of course, it’s no utopia. While there are ‘‘amazing’’ beaches and parks, temperatures topping 50 degrees Celsius during the hottest months make spending any length of time outside unbearable, she says.
She also feels you never really get used to the transient nature of expat life, saying they’ve had to say goodbye to many good friends.
‘‘We have made new connections over the years but once you have been here a long time you have less energy for that and you end up being the one taking responsibility for helping newcomers settle in … I suspect the constant pattern of someone you know leaving will wear us down over time.’’ Quality of life
Aucklander Widd Bonney, 33, also believes he has a better standard of living in Dubai, saying life there is easier in many ways – and more fun.
He spent a year travelling the world before settling in Dubai in 2011, deciding he would be able to earn more than in London, where he originally intended to live, and have a better quality of life.
He too settled in quickly, making friends at work – he is a senior business development manager for conglomerate Transguard – and with other members of the ‘‘huge expat community". He’s found that people tend to socialise a lot more in Dubai, which could be explained by the higher incomes and the fact that many are looking to meet new people.
‘‘You can enjoy yourself more here; people go out. In New Zealand, my friends hardly ever go out. It’s all ‘I can’t afford it, I have a mortgage’... That’s what I feel is the problem with New Zealand – everyone is barely living and it’s pay-cheque to paycheque.’’
Siobhan Downes, a 27-year-old originally from Dunedin, moved to Dubai in January 2017 after being offered a job there as the editor of a news and entertainment website. One of the main draw cards for her was Dubai’s status as a major travel hub.
‘‘My favourite Dubai fact is that it’s located within an eight-hour flight of two-thirds of humanity,’’ she says.
‘‘I’ve visited places I never would have considered as holiday destinations if I hadn’t been living here – like Lebanon, Oman and Sri Lanka,’’ she says, adding that Jordan and Azerbaijan are next on her list.
Downes lives in the expat neighbourhood of Dubai Marina, where she shares an apartment with three Irish flatmates. While it’s ‘‘expensive’’, she says it’s good value.
‘‘Every room has its own ensuite bathroom, plus my building has a really nice gym and a chilled outdoor swimming pool. It definitely feels like an upgrade considering my flats back home didn’t even have heat pumps!’’
While Abernethy cites the high tax-free salaries as one of the major benefits of living there, she said the cost of living has increased significantly over the past 13 years and those in junior or middle-level roles may find themselves on struggle street.
‘‘Whereas everyone here was earning huge money and saving a lot when we arrived, today unless someone has a fairly senior role it would not be financially worth their while to relocate here. Senior professionals can still do extremely well financially but lower level workers would struggle today.’’
Entertainment and culture
For Bonney, Dubai is a bit like a Middle Eastern New York – ‘‘the city never sleeps so you’re always out enjoying yourself’’.
When he’s off duty, days might be spent at the beach, a hotel pool party or indulging in unlimited food and booze at brunch. Nights could be spent at one of the many restaurants, bars, nightclubs and superclubs, which often host DJs from around the world. The restaurants, he says, are diverse and ‘‘amazing’’.
Many of the expats we spoke to commented on how safe Dubai is and Bonney says that, after living in Auckland, it’s refreshing to go out at night and not see ‘‘drunk idiots everywhere fighting’’ and ‘‘girls on the floor spewing’’.
What sets Dubai apart, in his view, is that it remains true to its core Muslim values while also being open-minded toward expats and their ways of doing things.
Downes gets frustrated by those who dismiss Dubai as a superficial city lacking in history and culture.
She enjoys spending time in Old Dubai, which is filled with souks, museums, small cafes and art galleries and says there is truly something for everyone in terms of cultural activities. The diversity of cultures there can lead to some pretty unique – and surreal – experiences.
Earlier this year, she went to a K-Pop festival which attracted people from as far as Saudi Arabia.
‘‘It was kind of a bizarre experience – me, a Kiwi, watching Korean pop stars perform in Dubai surrounded by all these covered Saudi fans. The concert even stopped a couple of times so they could hold prayer time.’’
It grows on you
Many Kiwis only ever think of Dubai as a temporary home, as somewhere to earn more and accelerate their careers while having a bit of fun and travelling to places hard to access from New Zealand. However, many also say the place grows on you and the lifestyle becomes increasingly hard to give up.
Downes’ advice to Kiwis considering a move to Dubai
– or scoffing at the thought of it – would be ‘‘don’t knock it before you’ve tried it.
‘‘There are some great opportunities here that can help fasttrack your career and there is still some decent money to be made, provided you don’t let yourself get too caught up in the glitzy lifestyle. I’ve met so many expats who said when they first arrived they thought ‘oh, I’ll give it a year or two’ and they’ve now been here for 10 years. If you come with an open mind, this city has a lot to offer.’’