A Pacific paradise on a shoestring

Forty dollars doesn’t usually buy you a lot on a magical beachfront island holiday. In the Maldives, perhaps you’d get an entree – if you’re lucky. In the Seychelles, you’d be hard-pressed to find a camping ground for that. But in Samoa you can find a beachfront fale, with breakfast and dinner included.

Samoa is a little different to most Pacific Islands – strict ownership rules mean big hotel chains haven’t really set up shop. Most of the hotels are still run by families.

And they love their traditional offering: beach fales. These really are the hidden gems of Samoa, which not a lot of people know about.

Yes, there are some drawbacks, and I’m going to lay them out right here.

These are not overwater luxury villas. An openair fale is, essentially, a traditional Samoan building on stilts, which sits on the beach.

A fale has no windows, no walls. Just a roof and mattresses. You can often fit up to six people in one, you just pay a little more for the additional mattresses.

Your air-conditioning is the sea breeze, your stereo is lapping waves, your patio is the beach.

By night, most fales have mosquito nets and a woven curtain that you can drop down for a little privacy. Or, like us, you can keep them up to watch the stars.

A basic breakfast and dinner will be included, and heaps of Samoan hospitality. Don’t expect finedining, remember you’re only paying NZ$40 to $60 a night, per person. The biggest mistake we’ve made in Samoa is staying in the capital, Apia.

There is not a lot there, and all the beautiful beaches are on the other side of the island of Upolu.

The country’s other main island, Savai’i, is much less populated and has a plentiful supply of empty beaches and waterfront fales to choose from.

You’ll need to rent a car, or arrange a shuttle with the hotel. But when you arrive at the fale, it’s all about relaxation. You’ll be given a time for breakfast and dinner, and the rest is up to you.

Your diary will normally look a little like this: beach, snorkel, sleep, eat. Repeat. The cheapest fales start around $70 tala a person

($40), including breakfast and dinner – but most are

$60-$70 or $120 a couple. Shared bathrooms. Those are two words I’ve come to dread. But what can you really expect for $40?

You can pay about $100 extra a couple to get a fale with walls and a private en suite.

Fall asleep to the lapping waves and gentle ocean breeze before waking to a magnificent sunrise without even leaving your bed.

Matareva BeachResort’s fale accommodation was one of ourfavourites.

Even Samoa’s most beautiful beach, Lalomanu, has beach fales right on the sand.