Local delicacies secret of big win

Siobhan Downes talks to Vaughan Mabee, New Zealand’s newly crowned Chef of the Year, about his journey to the top of his field.

Vaughan Mabee had never even been to the South Island when he took up the job as executive chef at a top Central Otago restaurant. Four years later, and Mabee – who grew up in Northland around Kerikeri – has been named Chef of the Year in the 2019 Cuisine Good Food Awards.

His bistro, Amisfield, was the only restaurant in the South Island to be awarded three coveted hats.

Mabee is quick to deflect his own victory, instead highlighting the achievement of his team, which includes a dedicated forager and experienced charcutier.

‘‘I was a one-man army when I used to run restaurants overseas,’’ he says.

‘‘But now I have a great team and we’ve all worked together for years. I think in the last year Amisfield has reached higher than it’s ever been before, and it’s because of the longevity of passionate team members in the kitchen.’’

Before making the move south in 2015, Mabee spent 10 years building his experience in big-name kitchens overseas, such as Noma in Copenhagen, which topped the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list four times.

He never went to culinary school, and that’s something he says he wouldn’t change.

‘‘I trained the old-school way. I worked in big hotels under great chefs. I trained in Michelinstarred restaurants and some of the best restaurants in the world.

‘‘Culinary school covers a huge range of things that you learn, but in a short period of time. I think when you train under someone who is really special as a chef, you focus more and you acquire an expertise in a smaller range of things, but it’s better for you.’’

Since returning to New Zealand, Mabee says he has had to rethink who he is as a chef.

‘‘I had to kind of forget what I’d learnt and rebuild my style of cooking, and take it from my memories of growing up in beautiful New Zealand,’’ he says.

‘‘For me, when I think about what’s special about New Zealand, it’s all about, ‘what’s here that no-one else can use?’ It’s mainly from the ocean. My father’s a captain, my brother’s a fisherman. Growing up in the Far North, we were always on the water. We were always eating seafood that you can only get in New Zealand.’’

Even in landlocked Central Otago, it’s not difficult for Mabee to find inspiration.

‘‘I’m sitting outside my house right now, and I can see 200 kilometres each way without seeing one other house. I’m on the top of a mountain.

‘‘Every morning, I can see deer walking across the other side.’’

Some days, he says, he’ll even shoot down some fresh venison from his balcony while having a coffee in his underwear.

‘‘You have to walk across the valley to pick them up. It’s a bit of a mission but it’s well worth it. It’s a lot cheaper and fresher than the meat at [a supermarket],’’ he says.

Even the car park of Amisfield, which is at Lake Hayes just outside Queenstown, is a treasure trove of ingredients. ‘‘You’ve got hazelnuts, walnuts, wild watercress. It’s funny because you’ve got people who are selling watercress and it’s expensive. But here, it’s just everywhere. There’s an abundance of offerings from the land.

‘‘I just think if you didn’t use that, you’re not really showcasing where you are. If you come and dine at Amisfield, you’re eating things you can only get this time of the year – right here, right now.’’

That local-first approach was one of the qualities that was recognised by Cuisine editor Kelli Brett, who said the ingredients used at Amisfield ‘‘tell the story of the Central Otago landscape’’.

Mabee’s three- to seven-course feast, she said, was ‘‘one of the most spectacular meals you can find in New Zealand at this moment’’.

When pushed, Mabee admits being named Chef of the Year is one of the highlights of his career, not least because his father was able to be there to

Vaughan Mabee was named New Zealand’s best chef at the

Good Food Awards on Monday.

Mabee’s restaurant,

Amisfield Winery & Bistro, at Lake Hayes,

just outside Queenstown.

One of Mabee’s spectacular local treats, Paua Salami. celebrate, having moved to Queenstown recently to be able to spend more time with him and his son, Milton.

‘‘Being a chef, you can alienate yourself from everyone. I didn’t see my family for decades – I was just always working in kitchens,’’ Mabee says.

‘‘I haven’t seen my father a lot in the last 20 years, but he turned up to our awards party. He’s a tough guy, but when I got the award, I saw a tear come out of his eye.’’

Meanwhile, Wellington was the big winner at Monday’s awards, with six restaurants taking out categories. Newcomer Hiakai, opened by celebrity chef Monique Fiso in November last year, was awarded Best Specialist Restaurant, while Shepherd was named Best Casual Dining Restaurant. Fine-dining stalwart Logan Brown took home the award for Best Metropolitan Restaurant, and Boulcott Street Bistro received the Food Legend/Long-Term Player award.

Wellington wine bar Noble Rot was awarded Best Wine Experience, and Charley Noble was recognised for Best Drinks List.

Auckland fine-dining restaurant Sidart claimed the Restaurant of the Year title.