Don’t pop, use a good pimple potion
As a spotty teenager who still suffers from the occasional zit, Sophia Phan knows that all solutions are not created equal.
Iwas one of the many teenagers who had horrible acne growing up – think red, blotchy cheeks exacerbated by my constant picking (because the temptation to pick a zit is real). After high school, breakouts seemed to cease, thank goodness, but every now and then I get one and at the least opportune time. Nothing makes you feel more self-aware than a pimple smack bang in the middle of your chin.
As we enter Christmas party season, lack of sleep combined with poor food choices and copious amounts of alcohol, mean it’s inevitable breakouts are going to occur more frequently.
Dermatologist Dr Anita Patel says the underlying cause of all acne lesions is ‘‘a complex interplay between the changing skin microbiome and hormone surges, which occur when we transform from children to adults’’.
I’ve experimented with a few products, some better than others, to try to zap them as soon as possible.
Dr Patel says a cleanser with a slight amount of acid, especially formulated for acne-prone skin, is a good step, but there’s no one miracle ingredient you should be looking at. She says different acids have different roles ‘‘and must be individualised to the patient’s skin type and acne type’’.
Try something like Neutrogena’s Visibly Clear Spot Proofing Daily Wash, Dr Dennis Gross’ All-InOne Facial Cleanser With Toner, or Aspect Purastat 5 Cleanser.
Deciem’s chief executive and co-founder, Nicola Kilner, agrees.
‘‘There is an array of ingredients that can be used to address different types of blemishes. The choice of ingredient takes into account skin type, blemish type and the severity of the skin concern. Common ingredients to target the look of blemishes include niacinamide and salicylic acid.’’
I’m a big fan of topical treatments because I have zero patience and like to see instant results. I have a preferred method depending on the type of breakout, be it cystic, blackhead or whitehead.
I’ve found The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution to be super effective on small bumps and cystic pimples.
I like to apply it on to clean, dry skin before bed. When I wake up in the morning – voila! They’ve shrunk or disappeared completely.
But be careful with this product: it’s not nice when you apply too much.
‘‘Overusing Salicylic Acid will result in excessive exfoliation of the skin. This may lead to negative side effects, including dry skin and signs of inflammation,’’ says Kilner.
I once applied a liberal amount to a spot on the side of my forehead and woke up with the driest, crustiest looking rash near my eye. I told colleagues I must have been bitten by a bug. Oops. So learn from my mistake.
Another favourite is Dermalogica’s Overnight Clearing Gel; it’s gentler on the skin but much dearer, and I find it runs out faster.
Both treatments will make your skin tingle slightly, but there’s no pain otherwise.
If you don’t trust yourself with applying treatment or you’re a pimple picker (which is a big no-no!), pimple patches may be the way to go. They’re pretty new on the beauty scene, but I can confirm they’re a lot of fun.
I use the CORSX Acne Pimple Master Patch whenever I have an under-skin bump or a whitehead that’s about to erupt. It’s inexpensive and comes in different sizes depending how big a breakdown you’re about to have. It’s a hydrocolloid patch, which means it’ll absorb all the gunk from the pimple and promote healing.
They’re easy to use and are flesh-coloured so are not too noticeable on the face. I’ve often gone to wash my face in the morning and forgotten I had applied them in the first place.
My only issue with them is that they’re not always a guarantee. Sometimes you just get one that’s so large that it may require multiple patch applications.
If subtlety is not your thing, I recommend the Mario Badescu Drying Lotion or Kate Somerville
Christmas party season is the perfect breeding ground for an outbreak.
Neutrogena’s Visibly Clear Spot Proofing
Daily Wash, The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
and Kate Somerville EradiKate
Acne Treatment.
EradiKate Acne Treatment, which are both fabulous at zapping whiteheads.
If you absolutely can’t resist popping that pimple, let an expert attend to it. I promise it will be equally as satisfying. I like to think that I have a pretty good pain threshold, but I’m not going to lie: this process is painful. The facialist uses the holy trinity of pressure, physics and old-fashioned determination to prick and squeeze the gunk from your pores.
‘‘It’s all about the stretching of the skin and the right angle on how to use the needle to open the pore,’’ says skin expert Carina Gross from Belameres. ‘‘One of the main mistakes I’ve seen is that too much pressure is used instead of using the right way of piercing the skin. Your skin can easily break if you use too much pressure, and that will leave a mark and potentially a scar.
‘‘I always advise against squeezing at home as it usually causes even more breakouts and makes it worse.
‘‘If someone just likes to get some blackheads on the nose, I don’t mind it as long as they don’t break the skin.’’ Gross, who performs up to 10 extractions a day, says there have been instances whereby the pimples have popped in her face, but over the years she’s learnt how to avoid them.
I asked if she had any other memorable experiences.
‘‘I’d say the ones that come out easily [usually on an oily skin] and heal quickly are the most satisfying ones, as I love getting results. Sometimes I think clients must feel so much lighter after getting so much gunk out of the skin.’’
To make your life less painful and reduce the frequency of spots, dermatologist Patel says you should try to adopt these habits:
■ Wash your skin twice a day with the right cleanser, and especially after exercising;
■ Don’t fiddle with the spots;
■ Don’t steam your face;
■ Eat a healthy diet, avoiding a high carb, high GI diet and excessive dairy;
■ Get some sleep. – Sydney Morning Herald