Train with a view
In the middle of South Africa’s Kruger National Park, you will find an unusual ‘sleeping carriage – just parked on an old bridge,
Check-in
Kruger Shalati – The Train on the Bridge opened in December 2020 on the historic Selati Bridge in South Africa’s Kruger National Park.
This one-of-a-kind stay comprises 24 train carriage suites – lined up along the bridge as though a train has simply paused there momentarily – and seven Bridge House suites along the riverbank that are geared towards honeymooners and families.
From the viewing deck and overhanging pool halfway along the bridge, you can spy hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, elephants and birds in and around the waters below.
Kruger Shalati is found towards the south of Kruger National Park, which snuggles against the border with Mozambique.
The train hotel is a 51⁄2-hour drive northeast of Johannesburg, but the easiest option for international visitors is to board a one-hour domestic flight from Johannesburg to Skukuza.
Hotel staff will meet you there and whisk you to your digs 4km away. As you cross the Sabie River, you will see the train parked on the bridge to the west and feel smug that it is your home for the night.
The look
The steel bridge, which opened to railway traffic in 1910, is suspended above the river on handsome sandstone-clad piers.
In 1923, three years before Kruger National Park was proclaimed, rail safaris known as ‘‘round in nine’’ took passengers on nine-day tours of the Lowveld. These safaris became incredibly popular due to the game-viewing opportunities.
The bridge was one of the overnight stops for these safaris. Guests would feast at a makeshift boma (enclosed gathering place) where Kruger Station now stands.
This complex includes a restaurant and bar that is open to all park visitors, a steam locomotive and a train carriage that was once the State Funeral Coach.
The room
Everything in the train carriage suites – bed (draped with a bespoke Seana Marena chief’s blanket), bath, shower and double basin – is geared towards that great view.
The rooms celebrate African design, with artisans name-checked in the compendium (the wall-art embroidery, for instance, is by Johannesburg artist and clothing designer Sakhile Cebekhulu).
There is a silky, patterned bathrobe to relax in, and a handy birding guide on the coffee table between two armchairs.
Food and drink
Meals are served in the open-air riverbank dining area, near two circular swimming pools, allowing a great angle on the train as you select from the multicourse menus.
There is something for everyone, including some South African-skewed dishes such as venison bobotie croquettes for breakfast, a game and cheese platter (with warthog salami and smoked springbok) for lunch, and a tikka ostrich fillet and milk tart dessert for dinner.
With pre-dawn and dusk game drives built into your stay, rugging up and venturing out is de rigueur. Eagle-eyed guides might spot a tiny lilacbreasted roller perched on a tree branch or a cackle of hyenas along the road. I tick off elephants, giraffes, zebras, leopards and even a rare pangolin.
The verdict
If you want to safari in high style, this is the spot for you.
The essentials
Skukuza Rest Camp, Kruger National Park. Train carriage suites are from R9950 ($880) an adult a night (double occupancy) and R12,438 (solo occupancy), Bridge House suites are from R7650 an adult a night (double occupancy). Rates include meals, drinks including local spirits and beers, and two daily game drives. Visit krugershalati.com.
Highlight
The guides’ impressive wildlife-spotting skills and deep knowledge of the park’s flora and fauna.
Lowlight Out and about
Bold vervet monkeys that are quite at home along the bridge. – traveller.com.au
The writer was a guest of South Africa Tourism; southafrica.net.