BASIC INSTINCT
Samantha Murray Greenway on the quiet staying power of non-basic basics.
Buying the best versions you can afford of the basics you wear daily makes good sense. They might not be the clothes that make the most noise, but there are good reasons to buy well-made items that can be filed under the category of non-basic basics. Let’s start with the style savvy, who are already leaning in that direction. There’s been an influx of noticeably quiet clothes on the catwalks; white shirts and T-shirts, good-looking jeans, straightforward knits (crewnecks, polonecks) and wearable jackets. Theirs might be simplicity with a difference, made from luxury fabrics and cut to ensure that even such wardrobe workhorses are worth paying attention to, but let’s hope it’s an ethos that trickles down, because clothes that are put together properly not only last longer, but they (and you) feel good each time you put them on.
Slip on a Sunspel T-shirt and you’ll see what I mean. The British label that is sold here in New Zealand produces a T-shirt that puts others in the shade. The finish is immaculate, the cut is carefully considered and, magically, these tops seem to get better with wear. But it’s the feel of the thing that makes the biggest impact: It’s 100% cotton but feels as smooth as silk.
Creative director Dave Telfer says that’s partly down to their experience and expertise (they’ve been making T-shirts in their English factory for 87 years) but, “it is also thanks to an obsession with our supply chain. We fully trace our extra-long staple Supima Cotton fibre back to the farm in California which is the only way to truly guarantee the perfect quality we are looking for. It is the length of the extra-long staple fibre that gives the fine and silky feel of the fabric. We also oversee the process of spinning the yarn – we use a unique two-fold yarn for durability – and knitting the jersey. The specific weight of the fabric ensures it’s soft and lightweight but also durable. It will feel soft with every wear for years to come”. Unsurprisingly, Sunspel’s version costs more than the average T-shirt, but then it’s not your average T-shirt.
Is it worth the cost? There’s added value in things that are made to last. Value for the planet if we buy less because we want and need less (less clothes going to landfill and less energy used to make them) and value for your pocket (think about the cost per wear of things you wear weekly, versus the one party frock splurge that gets a couple of outings a year). Of course, value in quality is an ethos that extends beyond fashion. “The sentiment around buying good quality products is as relevant for the jewellery market as it is clothing. We believe in buying less but better,” says Claire Hammon of Auckland-based jewellers Meadowlark. “With highquality jewellery, you never throw it away – it can be made to fit, altered, repaired and refreshed.”
How things wear is not only down to the raw materials, but how things are made in the first place. “A lot of thought and testing goes into our garments, it makes the clothes fit and hang better,” says designer Olivia Cashmore, who has her own shop/workroom in Auckland.
“One of the main things fast-fashion does,” she says, “is skip a lot of steps in manufacturing, but together those steps apply to a properly-made garment.” Fast-fashion requires a quick turnaround and cheap production to fulfil its remit. ʤuality does cost: Even if you’re getting one well-made piece for the price of five fast-fashion items, that might well be a better deal if you want your clothes to last.
The design details intrinsic to well-made clothes exist for a reason: The lining that provides a protective barrier between you and the outer fabric on a pair of trousers makes them less likely to crease or seat; small stitches take longer to sew but they are less likely to snag and break. If a button is bound and anchored properly, it won’t fall off in the wash. There’s merit in good quality items that you’ll want to wear over and over. Wouldn’t it be good if that was a catwalk message that stuck?