THE BEST OF FREO
It’s impossible not to be charmed by this eclectic port suburb, also known as the gateway to Rottnest Island, writes Tim Richards.
The boutique hotel
Hidden within a set of limestone cottages in the heart of Australia’s Fremantle, Warder’s Hotel is a clever mix of heritage charm and comfort.
Originally lived in by warders from the Fremantle Prison, these small 19th-century homes have been refashioned into intimate accommodation, which opened in 2020. The rooms have simple, attractive lines, making the most of heritage features. The Fremantle Markets and other attractions are nearby, and the hotel features the stylish Gimlet bar and the accomplished Emily Taylor restaurant.
See: wardershotel.com.au
The brewery
Housed in the sprawling former A-Shed on Victoria Quay, Gage Roads Brew Co is a beefed-up version of a beer hall, its lengthy interior scattered with different bars and dining areas; from restaurant-style tables to comfy low sofas.
The result is a surprisingly warm vibe, especially when packed with punters. Big steel tanks line one side, producing a range of house beers along with ginger ale and cider. The simple food menu focuses on pizza and various easy-to-eat items. It’s a great introduction to Freo’s busy port area. See: gageroads.com.au
The museum
Housed in the historic Commissariat buildings near the popular Fishing Boat Harbour, the WA Shipwrecks Museum combines heritage architecture with daring tales of seamanship and calamity on the high seas.
The star exhibit is the remnants of the Dutch ship Batavia, which was wrecked on a reef off the WA coast in 1629. Its backstory – involving shipwreck, tyranny and murder – reads like a script for a thriller movie.
The wreck was excavated in the 1970s and is now on display, along with a skeleton of one of its doomed passengers.
See: museum.wa.gov.au/shipwrecks
The rooftop bar
The historic National Hotel had a major renovation after being gutted by fire, and in 2018 a marvellous rooftop bar was added to its attractions.
The view from the top of this threestorey pub is expansive, taking in historic High Street with its colonial architecture, the curving white roof of the WA Maritime Museum, and stretches of the Indian Ocean with Rottnest Island on the horizon.
The drinks menu is well stocked with beer and wine from around the world, and
cocktails are available to enhance the vista. See: nationalhotelfremantle.com.au
The entertainment zone
Facing central Walyalup Koort, the dining and entertainment space known as FOMO is a laneway precinct created from scratch.
A central open-air lane boasting a gelati stall connects to two covered lanes, each packed with brightly coloured food outlets serving Vietnamese, Japanese and Korean cuisine, among others. Downstairs is a sizeable amusement zone offering bowling, mini-golf and arcade machines, great for families but also catering to adults only after 8pm, with a fully stocked bar that serves pub food.
See: fomofreo.com.au
The cafe-bar
Sangria and tapas on the Cappuccino Strip? No problem. Sailing For Oranges is a bright new venue which drags the old-school-cafe look of popular South Terrace into the 21st century.
Referencing free Spanish settlers who came to Fremantle in 1850, its streetfacing bar is reminiscent of the light, bright colours of the Mediterranean – as is its menu. For breakfast, choose perhaps eggs chilbir, made with sheep’s milk yoghurt and chilli butter; later in the day, there’s a temping tapas and raciones menu ranging from mussel escabeche to grilled local octopus. Deliciosa!
See: sailingfororanges.com.au
The Italian restaurant
An Italian restaurant with a simple interior, comfortable seating, well-stocked bar and fabulous food – what more could you want?
After World War II, Italian migrants flocked to Fremantle, and that heritage is paid homage by Vin Populi, opened in 2023. Situated in the atmospheric west end of the city, with its delightful colonial architecture, this restaurant has no fixed food menu – instead, diners order from an ever-changing blackboard selection.
Delights thereon might include wagyu bresaola, spaghetti polpette, sardine gnocchetti, or mushroom risotto. There are plenty of Italian wines to match.
See: vinpopuli.com.au
The wine bar
The curiously named Nieuw Ruin is situated within a graceful old residence on Norfolk St. Walls are stacked with wine bottles, facing long timber tables lit by candlelight and low-hanging lamps.
Outside is an atmospheric, covered terrace. The bar’s website promises “weird wines”, but in reality, it’s a range of interesting and unconventional drops.
Take a walk on the wild side by ordering one of the bar’s orange wines, whose amber colour comes from prolonged contact with grape skins; and perhaps some sharing dishes from the tempting food menu.
See: nruin.com
The walking tour
Fremantle’s history is a complex tapestry, dominated by its convict past and maritime enterprises. The Best of Fremantle Walking Tour interprets that picture as the group strolls from the decorative town hall to the still-active harbour at the Swan River’s mouth.
Along the way, the guide embellishes the city’s plentiful heritage structures with fascinating details, including the exciting tale of a convict getaway by ship; and reveals a marvellous hidden mural by the memorably named Horatio T Birdbath which depicts the Freo of the future.
See: ohheywa.com.au
One more thing
Freo is the logical launching pad for Rottnest Island/Wadjemup, a 30-minute ferry ride across the Indian Ocean.
Take a day trip to the popular getaway, where you can hire a bike or take a bus tour to visit quiet beaches, historic sights and the famously cute quokkas.
See: rottnestisland.com