LA’s CAPTIVATING CENTRE
This ever-changing, increasingly vibrant neighbourhood in one of the world’s best cities is a must-see while you’re in town, writes Shandelle Battersby.
Downtown Los Angeles is quickly emerging as one of the hot spots to visit in California’s City of Angels and is constantly evolving – you could spend a week exploring the varied districts of this one part of the city alone.
Encompassing Chinatown, Little Toyko, the Arts District, the Fashion District and more, this vibrant area has plenty to offer the curious traveller – and much of it is walkable. Here are a few places not to miss.
TAKE A (SHORT) TRAIN RIDE
Painted bright orange, Angels Flight, the world’s shortest railway, in the Bunker Hill district, can’t be missed
The railway has two funicular cars running in opposite directions on a shared cable and the one-minute ride between Sth Olive St and Sth Hill St costs US$1 (NZ$1.65) or 50c with a TAP card.
It has been transporting passengers up and down the steep hill since 1901, though it was moved half a block along in 1969 so its original site could be redeveloped.
If you don’t fancy the ride, there is a set of stairs you can take.
See: angelsflight.org
EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Across the road from the lower entrance to Angels Flight is Grand Central Market, a huge, neon sign-clad complex that has been in operation since 1917.
It is currently home to about 40 vendors, including several legacy stall owners who have been there for more than 50 years. It’s an insight into this vast city’s immigrant community – you can try dishes from all over the world.
From Friday to Sunday there is a weekly Bazaar and regular live entertainment and events. Grab to go or find a table to perch on – maybe with a beer from local craft beer spot Golden Road Brewing, which has 20 brews on tap.
See: grandcentralmarket.com
INDULGE YOUR INNER ARCHITECT
This historic part of the city has many gorgeous buildings in a range of architectural styles.
Dating from 1893, the Bradbury Building on South Broadway is the central city’s oldest remaining commercial building, and you can have a quick look inside the ground floor to see the light-filled atrium and its intricate iron railings, open-cage elevators and marble stairs.
The Bradbury Building has appeared in eight feature films, most notably Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner in 1982.
See: laconservancy.org
Downtown LA’s newer buildings are equally impressive, notably Frank Gehry’s show-stopping sculptural Walt Disney Concert Hall, where you can do a free self-guided tour, and The Broad contemporary art museum next door, a striking building with a “honeycomb-like” exterior designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro.
Nearby is the imposing Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, which can seat 3000 people. It was designed by Jose Rafael Moneo and opened in 2002.
SEE AMAZING ART
The Broad should be one of your muststops – and it’s free once you register for a timed-entry ticket.
Founded by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad, the museum’s 2000-strong collection includes Jeff Koons’ enormous Tulips and Balloon Dog, rooms dedicated to the likes of Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol and two of Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirror Room.
(Note that The Broad is closed Mondays and one of the Kusama Mirror Rooms must be booked on the last Wednesday of every month.)
See: thebroad.org
Almost across the street is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA Grand Avenue), free with timed-entry tickets. You’ll find works from the likes of Cindy Sherman, Jackson Pollock, Roy Lichtenstein, Mark Rothko and Ansel Adams.
See: moca.org
If street art is your thing, keep your eyes peeled for works around the area such as Bloom by Hueman at 273 Rose St and the Pope of Broadway by Eloy Torrez, a 21m painting of Latino actor Anthony Quinn.
GET LOST IN BOOK HEAVEN
At 453 Sth Spring St you’ll find The Last Bookstore, set in a former bank, which has books even on display inside two former vaults.
This enormous two-storey independently owned store not only sells second-hand and new books, records and comics, but it also creates “Instagrammable” spots around the store out of books in the hopes The Last Bookstore will inspire visitors to buy a book or two (the famous book tunnel is a hot spot).
The space is also home to a cafe, Spring Arts Collective, and more.
Poke your head into the fab Fold Gallery to browse cool homewares, art prints, vintage and collectible goods and more. See: lastbookstorela.com
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Air New Zealand, United Airlines, Delta Air Lines and American Airlines (seasonal) fly direct from Auckland to Los Angeles.
The LAX FlyAway bus regularly goes between the Union Station transport hub and every terminal at Los Angeles International Airport and costs just US$9.75 per person one way.
If you want to save on taxis or Ubers while you’re on the ground, get a TAP card.
This will allow you to ride the local buses and Metro trains for just $1.75 per ride.