Amberley – take the time to stop
Iam duty bound to start this article by quoting a letter to the editor of The Press on October 29, 1959. Sir – My family and I read with great interest at the breakfast table this morning the wonderful account of Amberley district. All the different attractions were given great prominence but no mention of the Anglican, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian and Methodist churches. As it is God who gives the people of Amberley the power to make or break the district, surely His House should have been mentioned. Yours, etc, – Amberley Resident
After reading this disgruntled letter, I was so relieved that Mike Crean, on April 10, 2012, in a Press article, cleverly averted the Amberley breakfast table outrage by mentioning the Church of the Holy Passion of our Lord.
Mike wrote how this attractive timber church was built in 1866 by Sir Frederick Weld, seventh Premier of New Zealand. Until the church was moved in the mid1950s, towed the 36km to Amberley by a traction engine, it loyally served the people of the Brackenfield area.
Mike knows this is true because, always being the man to break the big news stories of the day, he actually remembers seeing the church progressing ponderously along State Highway 1 towards Amberley.
Now, I know this is a diversion and a complete distraction, but just checking on the list of our first premiers before their job description changed and the position became known as prime minister, there are some interesting stories to investigate.
Our first premier, Sir Henry Sewell, enjoyed only 14 days in office before he was ousted by Sir William Fox, who only just got his desk way he liked it before he, too, was replaced 14 days later by Edward Stafford.
You will be relieved to know that Stafford lasted for five years and 41 days and then we had comparative stability with various men (some more than once) until Robert Stout arrived in 1884. Stout immediately set a record by lasting only 13 days, to be promptly succeeded by Harry Atkinson, who blitzed them all by lasting a mere seven. Who said politics is dull?
You can mull over these interesting statistics as I want to take you on a gentle short walk around the quiet back streets of Amberley.
If you are driving from Christchurch, on reaching the outskirts of Amberley you will pass the Red Dairy (aka the Amberley Foodstore) on your left. Not knowing your taste in food, you might like to stop here because, at the time of writing, 219 people have taken time out of their busy day to write a Google review of this fine establishment.
I find this fact amazing. I’m thrilled that ‘Kiwi Shell’, who stopped there, ordered a thickshake, chicken and chips, and a serving of fish’n’chips on the way to see their cardiologist. Kiwi Shell said it was yum, really good value and the service was super fast by lovely friendly people.
That was the précised version, so I think if Kiwi Shell were heading north by the time they finished writing this glowing review they would be ready for a fish’n’chips repeat in Kaikōura.
If you have resisted the delights of the Red Dairy, look out for the pretty-as-apicture Catholic church. I have to confess that, despite a lifelong fascination with churches of all denominations, I’m not as yet a religious man. As a boy I attended five different Christchurch churches and I don’t think I can take the blame that only two of them are still standing.
I do, however, greatly appreciate the architecture, tranquil ambience and history of so many churches. Like you, I’m sure you will agree that the Church of the Holy Passion is a beautiful little church.
Continue northward along the main road, turn left at the ingeniously named Blue Dairy and park in Douglas Rd. There will never be any parking issues here – if by some freaky chance you can’t get a park it’s because all those other loyal Press readers are following my very compelling instructions.
Now that I have alerted you to the number of people who feel morally compelled to review Kiwi dairies, don’t be too disappointed that only 207 customers reviewed the Blue Dairy.
Take solace in the fact that a Mr Craig Brown did write, “even if I want to keep driving, the car pulls in here so we have to buy a single scoop ice cream”. I think it very much sounds like Craig, while eating his ice cream, needs to walk one block up to the Arthur Burke Mazda dealership to negotiate a trade-in on his self-willed car.
Strangely enough, although the very reputable Arthur Burke has been in business since 1935, it’s managed only 55 Google reviews. Obviously, buying a $4.50 ice cream stirs stronger emotions than replacing your car. Have I mentioned that it’s a strange world we live in?
Anyway, back to within two breaths of where you have parked your car, can I suggest you turn left down Church St where, on your left, is the Anglican Church of the Holy Innocents. This beautiful timber church is set among mature trees and lawns and feels a world away from the busy state highway. This quiet sanctuary was built in 1877 and named to remember two children who drowned crossing the Kowai River. The church had to be rebuilt in 1891 as it was destroyed in a hurricane the previous year. To the side of the church is a parish hall equipped with heat pumps and a high-grade kitchen that looks just the place to hire for your art class day out.
Continuing our leisurely stroll, turn left into Bank St, which leads you back on to the main road and the Hurunui Pathway. Here you will discover an interesting history trail alerting you to fascinating life-changing facts about Amberley and the surrounding area. After you’ve passed the motel you’ll come to the cute cob cottage nestled in the beautiful setting of Chamberlain Park.
This cottage looks as though it has been there forever, but it actually started out in life on a nearby farm. Sadly, it was damaged in a storm and was moved to its present location in 1975 before being beautifully restored by the Kowai Archives Society.
By this stage you are likely to need a toilet, so, depending on the urgency of the situation, walk briskly past the Amberley Hotel to the public toilets. Now, these have excellent Google reviews but, of much more importance, these were some of my mother’s favourite facilities in the whole of North Canterbury.
Apart from the clean, light atmosphere of this fine facility, my mother actually once left a pair of glasses there and they were still there when she returned. If that doesn’t speak volumes for what sort of place Amberley is, I don’t know what does.
Going back to the Google review – what freaks me out is that I am writing this article at 6pm in Sydney and Google tells me that the Amberley public toilets are not busy at the moment – how does it know?
Just a few metres past my mum’s favourite facilities you will come to the fine statue honouring our extraordinarily courageous soldier Sir Charles Upham. Sir Charles didn’t actually live in Amberley but he would have certainly passed through it many times on his way to the family farm at Conway Flats.
While researching Charles’ wartime bravery I stumbled upon a This is Your Life hosted by a young and debonair Bob Parker. For those of you who, like me, haven’t dedicated their lives to watching this series, it’s the programme where the famous are ambushed into reliving their lives in front of a studio audience.
I can’t imagine there has ever been a more uncomfortable guest than Sir Charles Upham as he looked so ill at ease throughout the whole programme. Only at the end, when his two young grandsons came on and this great man tenderly placed his hands on their shoulders, did you see the real man. I believe Upham suffered for the rest of his life from nightmares due to his wartime experiences.
Now, if I were suddenly to become a wealthy man I would donate an elegant, broad underpass to Amberley as the state highway is not an ideal road to cross. So, turn around and walk back to your car – and, yes, you are now allowed an ice cream as I’m about to take you on a longer, more invigorating walk.
Drive for six minutes along Amberley Beach Rd and you will find the sort of beachside community that you remember from your youth. It’s so lovely to find somewhere that’s how you’ve always remembered it.
The waves produce a lovely crashing sound on the stony beach and the views northwards are magnificent. From the beach reserve there’s a flat 6km-return walk meandering under pine trees with a large choice of nice picnic spots along the way. It will take you a little over an hour to return to your car, but if you spend time picking up stones and throwing them into the surf it could take you as much a week.
For those of you who did not pack a picnic hamper can I suggest you go back into town and lunch at the excellent Nor’ Wester Café on the main road. I’ve chosen this cafe over the tempting Red and Blue dairies because it’s had 671 Google reviews and, like you, I’m so easily influenced!