SMALL BUT MIGHTY

Don’t overlook the little guys when it comes to wine producers, writes Jo Cribb.

Small wineries in New Zealand are defined as those that produce under 200,000 litres a year. There are over 600 of them. These often family-run businesses craft their bottles with aching love, often for little return.

Like Brian and Nicky of Le Grá Winery in north Wairarapa. They were searching for a business that would allow them more time to care for their daughter with a life-threatening illness. Each year that their vines produce, and their daughter thrives, they add another ring to the logo on their wine label. The label looks like the cross-section of a vine trunk, with a little love heart representing their daughter in the middle. Le Grá means ‘with love’ in Gaelic, Brian’s native tongue.

Or Ōhau Wines in the Horowhenua discovered only when a large area of farmland was being subdivided for housing in 2006. The soil was tested to see what crop could be planted around the sections. The answer was don’t build houses, plant vines. The river terrace soils are vineyard gold and with long dry autumns and cool nights produce ripe fruity wines.

And Esses Wines of Kaikōura. Esses simply means lots of s’ because that best describes their vineyard site: Snow-capped mountains, sea views, spectacular skies and stoney ground. Aaron, Mel and fouryear-old Parker (heir to the estate) currently tend their 1.5 hectares to produce world-class méthode traditionnelle. Their adventure started when living and drinking champagne in Africa and realising it would be cheaper to make their own.

Next time you have the chance to try something from a small producer, or even better have a chat with one, you’ll understand how it is possible to bottle passion and love.

Le Grá, Pinot Noir 2019, $38

We loved every drop of our glasses. It was made even tastier accompanied with a generous platter of homemade preserves and cheeses at their cellar door. Expect raspberries, smokey blackberries, cherries and a touch of mushroom and earth and vanilla.

Ōhau, Woven Stone Pinot Gris 2021, $17

Don’t let the pale lemon hue fool you, this is packed full of peach, pear, green apple and a touch of ginger. Just delicious.

Esses, Pia Extra Brut Cuvée NV, $45

A giddy glass of lemon and apple brioche with bunches of floral spring blossom, grapefruit, shaved pineapple and lime. These grapes clearly lapped up the sea spray and sunshine of the Kaikōura coast.

// Jo Cribb owns a small vineyard in Martinborough and is a keen student of wine (yes, that does involve sitting exams and writing essays). She is on a mission to hunt out the best wines at the best prices and has no time for wine snobbery. Follow her adventures in wine @winesauvy