What is US burger chain Wahlburgers really like?
When Wahlburgers opened in Queenstown the press release announced that it was part of the fastest-growing burger chain in North America, and that it would “boost the city’s international profile”.
Leaving aside the fact that Queenstown is hardly a city, it already has a significant international profile – too much some say. So how would a new restaurant boost it?
“Hollywood A-Lister” Mark Wahlberg – who owns the restaurant chain with his brother Donnie (from New Kids on the Block) and Paul (a chef) – would be promoting the Queenstown launch in November to more than 50 million followers on his social media platforms, we were told. Indeed, Mark is looking forward to seeing Queenstown in-person, it said.
Amazing. But what about the food? The Auckland restaurant received several dud reviews.
However, beyond a promise to bring in a breakfast menu, food is not mentioned in the publicity material for Queenstown.
And there were more questions. What was the atmosphere like? What would make this restaurant stand out in a town with over 150 eating establishments?
We went to find out.
The restaurant
It was a Saturday night during the school holidays, and a little drizzly, but Queenstown was busy when we headed out for a family dinner. No need to book a table at Wahlburgers, only three were taken and beyond a steady stream of Uber Eats pickups, there was only one other group of diners who arrived while we were there.
After examining a fairly predictable menu of burgers, pizzas, fries, and shakes, we began to absorb the green interior, and the decor: posters of Mark Wahlberg movies, photos of the Wahlberg family, panels on the ceilings with Wahlberg movie titles. It’s like the Lone Star with its collection of movie memorabilia but it’s almost all Mark Wahlberg. They are Wahl walls.
The food
The Aotea Burger looked promising – beef, lettuce, tomato, onions and American cheese (I’m not sure how this differed from other types of cheese), with beetroot, pineapple and egg and “Paul’s signature Wahl sauce”. For $20 it was not a huge burger but we gave it a tick of approval.
The BLT Chicken Schnitty ($17) was solid, and the Super Melt ($20, beef burger ingredients in a sandwich), was adequate but small.
The Impossible Burger ($21, plantbased patty, cheese, onions lettuce, tomato and Wahl sauce) looked like the most substantial burger of the night but its faithful replication of meat texture was a turn off to the vegetarian who prefers, well, vegetables.
The burgers were acceptable and probably priced right, but when New Zealand’s most famous burger joint – Fergburger – is about 100m down the road and you are surrounded by lively competition, you really need to be producing something inspirational. Wahlburgers is not doing that.
As for the ingredients of the mysterious Wahl sauce ... just like the sauce in a Big Mac, we were told.
Verdict
Wahlburgers is essentially a shrine to Mark Wahlberg, with a bit of family thrown in. If you love the man who was once Marky Mark, you will love the restaurant. You can even buy some merchandise (“Mom’s Favorite” T-shirts are everywhere).
Wahlberg is said to have a net worth of about $400 million. I’m guessing he didn’t make that selling hamburgers, but acting in blockbuster films such as Ted, and The Italian Job, as well as his many other business interests. You can find out all about them on his social media accounts, particularly Instagram. where you will see a lot of his clothing brand, tequila and a Catholic meditation and prayer app. What you won’t find is any reference to the launch of Wahlburgers in Queenstown, New Zealand. In fact there is sparse mention of any of the 112 global franchises.