A distinctly different slice of Italy
As long as you don’t make jokes about the Mafia, you’ll have a bella time on Italy’s largest island of Sicily, writes Carol Sottili.
When to go to Sicily
If sunshine is more important than warmth, go in April. Choose October if you can put up with a few showers in exchange for warmer temperatures. Summer is great for beach-lovers, but it’s crowded.
Why go
Sicily’s culture has been richly moulded by adversity. Plagues, earthquakes, wars, enslavements, revolts, and volcanic eruptions, have played outsize roles in its dramatic history. The island’s dizzying succession of conquering kingdoms left behind fascinating architectural remnants, including some of the world’s best-preserved Greek ruins. Plus, the food is great and the scenery lovely.
Logistics
Take a flight to Rome, then take a connecting flight to Catania or Palermo. The best way to see Sicily is by rental car. Driving on the main roads is very manageable, although the larger cities can be daunting.
Money
The currency is the euro. Credit cards are accepted at most urban restaurants, hotels and shops, but keep cash at hand.
Language
Some argue that Sicilian is an Italian dialect, not a distinct language, but it’s safe to say that an Italian would not understand a conversation among Sicilians. Even within the island, there are dozens of dialects. English is not widely spoken outside the tourist centres. Italian is understood. Learning a few Sicilian words will be appreciated. Try using ‘‘salutamu’’ instead of ‘‘ciao’’ as a greeting.
Health
No special precautions. Sticking to bottled water in rural areas is prudent.
Prevailing myth
Everyone who lives in Sicily is a wiseguy, with connections to the Mafia. Even when the Cosa Nostra ruled Sicily, the vast majority of the population were not members. Instead, they were subjugated by organised crime. The Sicilian Mafia still exists, but many hope its heyday has passed.
Itinerary for first-timers
Focus on exploring Sicily’s connection to ancient Greece and Rome. The 2700-year-old city of Syracuse and the adjacent island of Ortygia offer windows through the centuries. Sites include the Greek theatre, Roman amphitheatre, Temple of Apollo, Altar of Hieron II, Ear of Dionysius, and the Archaeological Museum.
And don’t miss Ortygia’s lively street market and the Piazza del Duomo with its baroque cathedral.
In the Agrigento area, the Valley of the Temples is a must, offering an array of incredibly wellpreserved Greek structures. About 90 minutes east of Agrigento is Villa Romana del Casale, showcasing stunning Roman mosaics. In the Palermo area, connect with Sicily’s Norman history at the Cathedral at Monreale and the
Norman Palace. The city also offers several street markets for foodies. Break up the serious sightseeing with a tour of the active Mt Etna and shopping in the seaside town of Taormina.
Itinerary for repeat visitors
In Palermo, take in a performance at the Teatro Massimo, Italy’s largest opera house, opened in 1897. Delve into Sicily’s baroque period with a visit to the southeast cities of Ragusa and Noto. Explore Sicily’s burgeoning wine scene around Noto and Syracuse.
In the beach town of Cefalu, climb the steps to La Rocca summit and take in the view. Drive west of Syracuse to the Necropolis of Pantalica, with its ancient rock-cut tombs.
Eat this
Arancini (deep-fried rice balls). All versions of eggplant, but especially caponata. Any dish that includes sardines, which are caught off the coast. And definitely cannoli, except in summer, when granita is the better choice.
Reading list
The Leopard by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa; The Stone Boudoir: Travels Through the Hidden Villages of Sicily by Theresa Maggio; Seeking Sicily: A Cultural Journey Through Myth and Reality in the Heart of the Mediterranean, by John Keahey.
Playlist
Sicilian folk music, especially songs that feature the chiaramedda, Sicily’s version of the bagpipes.
Cultural sensitivities
Don’t refer to a Sicilian as an Italian. Don’t treat Sicilians as less sophisticated than those from northern Italian regions. And don’t make jokes about the Mafia.
Souvenirs
Pottery from the town of Caltagirone; a ceramic three-legged Trinacria, the symbol of Sicily; a handmade marionette; Sicilian marzipan.
Fun quote
‘‘Sicily is more beautiful than any woman.’’ – Truman Capote.