Halloumi move has Kiwis cheesed off
A decision granting exclusive use of the term ‘‘halloumi’’ to cheesemakers from Cyprus is raising concerns among New Zealand cheesemakers.
The European Union has compiled a list of hundreds of products it wants to protect using an intellectual property rights system called geographical indications (GIs). It argues that the items on the list, which also include Parma ham, grappa and puy lentils, have characteristics unique to where and how they have been made.
The move to register halloumi follows recent registrations of cheeses including havarti, despite significant global production outside the EU.
Neil Willman, president of the Specialist Cheesemakers Association, said the campaign to restrict the use of common names in international cheesemaking was concerning.
‘‘This erodes the heritage and evolution of food production in places like New Zealand, where cheeses such as feta, gruyere, havarti and halloumi are commonly consumed and considered generic,’’ Willman said.
‘‘Halloumi is a popular cheese for New Zealand consumers.’’
Willman said a recent decision in the European courts that extended protection to include food characteristics such as textures and colours suggested the EU had an even bigger agenda.
Dairy Companies Association of New Zealand executive director Kimberly Crewther said that by monopolising generic cheese names, the EU would limit both
New Zealand’s cheese production and its opportunities to increase cheese exports, currently worth $2 billion.
Cheese markets, particularly in Asia, were rapidly evolving and influenced by food fashion. This meant significant potential to increase exports of commonly known but less produced cheeses, Crewther said. GIs would limit the flexibility for New Zealand exporters to be part of that.