Hospitality labour crisis hits Cambridge hard
Danelle Maclarn got into hospitality because she loves seeing the smile on customers’ faces, serving them delicious food and making them happy.
But due to a major labour shortage in the industry, sometimes ‘‘it feels like it’s all for nothing’’.
‘‘Hospitality is very fickle,’’ the Stables on Alpha owner told Stuff, ‘‘It’s not a fun industry to be in at the moment.’’
The restaurant is one of many hospitality businesses in Cambridge that are crying out for staff. Some are considering reducing opening hours, while another is considering closing their doors for good if they can’t find people to fill the jobs.
The hospitality scene is buzzing, but so is the pressure. Owners and staff are working longer hours, or extra shifts, just so they can keep up with demand.
Maclarn said current staff are picking up the slack for everyone else.
‘‘It just sucks. I love hospitality, my customers are amazing, you do everything to make people happy.
‘‘You work hard for your kids so you can live a better life, but it just feels like it’s all for nothing,’’ Maclarn said through tears.
‘‘And now we have to turn people away because they don’t have a vaccine passport, and we get abused because of it.’’
Two years ago Stables on Alpha would be swarmed with applications – now they’re ‘‘scraping the bottom of the barrel’’ in their hunt for at least two additional chefs. Venues have been advertising for months to try to fill front-of-house, manager and chef positions. But not every application is a winner – many are seeking unrealistic pay, never show up, or steal from the business.
Filling front-of-house positions is easy enough with students, but experienced chefs and duty managers are harder to come by. Despite the demand, Maclarn said she won’t be paying outrageous wages to land one. That’s not a smart move financially, she said.
When asked if the shortage could lead to restaurants and cafes fighting to secure some of the best chefs in town, Maclarn said she would never approach another chef at a competing business. She’d rather they come to her.
Riccardo Carminati at Alpino Cambridge agreed.
‘‘We’re all in the same boat. I don’t like taking staff from someone else.’’
Despite being low on senior staff for most of 2021, Carminati remained optimistic.
‘‘I’m tired, but my spirits are high. I’ve been working in hospitality my whole life, I know what it’s like, but there have been long days,’’ Carminati said.
He needs a senior chef, a duty manager and another two front-of-house staff.
‘‘We don’t want the current staff to burn out, but I’m optimistic we will find someone.’’
And with international travellers no longer coming into the country, employers are turning to local workers .
But that’s not always the answer. Gaurav Fehgal, owner of Prince Albert The Olde English Pub & Restaurant, had a worker steal money and alcohol from the business during their first week at work.
‘‘We put the ad up a long time ago and only three people applied. I hired one local girl and she took money from me.’’
Fehgal took over the restaurant and bar in late December, working 14-hour days, seven days a week since. He hasn’t had a day off in weeks, but his family helps out when they can.
‘‘I’m exhausted,’’ he said.
‘‘We can’t do anything about it, we don’t have the staff. All of our savings and bank loans went into this, we have no other option.
A cafe on the town’s main street has also approached family or former staff to fill in the gaps.
Paddock owner Charlie Lee said if he doesn’t find front-of-house staff, the cafe may need to reduce hours.
‘‘I still have a responsibility for all our existing staff, they’ve stayed with me, worked really hard and I don’t want to make them upset, but we can’t carry on like this forever.’’
Lee said he was suffering from depression, always worrying about the future of business. Closing is not an option.