Great New Zealand Trek… Stage 12 Burkes Pass to Becks
Beginning at Cape Reinga twelve years ago, this awesome concept of trekking from North Cape to the Bluff in yearly stages, has developed into something of a tenacious hikoi.
This year almost 200 trekkers and over ninety volunteer crew met at Bauchops Hill near Burkes Pass in the Mackenzie country deep in the South Island. The lure of Bluff pulls strong.
People came from as far as Wales, Japan and France to either help or participate. The Australian contingent grows each year.
With ‘Camp Kids’ ranging in age from baby size to eight years, plus their bikes and strollers, trekkers had all sorts of obstacles to avoid, before even setting out for the day.
The route through the Mackenzie country and into Otago was a challenging one this year in both planning logistics and execution. The rocks were hard, the hills steep, the rivers cold and the high tops even colder.
Yet the sun shone daily, and the stars lit the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve by night. This is the Southern Hemisphere’s only dark sky reserve, created in 2012 and one of only eight in the world. Although the Aurora Australis has been seen in this area, sadly its magic didn’t happen for us.
But we didn’t have time to star gaze. We had approximately 30 kms to cover each day following dusty back roads, lumpy farm tracks, 4wheel drive routes and straight across ankle deep rivers.
From Bauchops Hill the fluttering
trail ribbons led to Grays Hills, then on to Glenbrook Station and on to Omarama.
Had it been winter, we could have skied the distances in the snow, but in March the area was thirsty for rain and massive irrigators, computer controlled, kept the soil moist. Dairy cows need lush green grass. Fortunately all but one such gigantic irrigator was turned off as we passed underneath.
Yet it was on the tops that held everyone spellbound with the majestic views. Crystal clear air meant you could see forever and geographical features were razor sharp. Stumpy spiky matagouri bushes seemed to be the only growth strong enough to handle the harsh growing conditions away from the irrigators.
At one beautiful lunch stop, beside Lake Benmore, it was pointed out that
‘over there is Otago and where you are standing is South Canterbury’. We North Islanders had much to learn.
A little further on we walked over Ohau C Power Station and later caught a glimpse of one of several commercial salmon farms.
To trek and have Aoraki Mt Cook seemingly watch your every step was amazing. Who was watching who? From the highest tops to the flat plains, she kept an eye on us. Snow covered, we felt the chill in the air and kept our thermals handy despite the warm sun.
Rest day at Omarama was a welcome break. While some trekkers took advantage to catch up on washing, others hit the cafes and the second-hand book shop. Some chose to ride the thermals in a glider.
Omarama is renowned for its big sky. Given the right conditions, gliders from this airfield can reach the North Island or even Australia; however no one attempted those distances that day.
Refreshed, the route led ever southwards. Twinburn Station hosted our next camp, from there to historic St Bathans and lastly to Becks. Generous land-owners allowed us access across their farms and we were glad this wasn’t a winter trek.
Deep snow, ice and cold winds straight from the Antarctic, make for a hard area to live in. Yet summers can be hot and dry.
So we trekked on over the dry stones, kicked up the dust and pulled sunglasses on for the glare.
Late wild flowers speckled the ground and fat snowberries demanded to be tasted. Elderberries hung in great droops. Our caterers fed us delicious South Island apricots, plums and greengages.
Money raised from Trek goes to help with the Malaghan Institute of Research in Wellington to explore a cure for Multiple Sclerosis. Once again Dr Anne La Flamme came from the Institute to join us for a couple of days. This year she was accompanied by her older daughter who thoroughly enjoyed the experience and is begging to return.
‘Many hands make light work” the saying goes. Many people make this Trek such a success. There are the eversmiling important medics, the muscled marquee crew, the night watch-people, the quad bike marshals, the all essential bar crew, the shower truck man, the toilet truck man, the coffee cart couple, the awesome trustees and of course the fantastic caterers. And this just names a few. Furthermore where would the Trek be without the Trekkers: walkers, bikers and horse riders?