Portuguese Camino Trail

During the month of May the weather was much like Auckland’s in November: warm, cool, sunny, changeable.

In May perhaps 50 walkers a day complete the Portuguese Camino. Numbers are higher in midsummer, but even at peak times this Camino is much less crowded than the trail starting in France, which at times averages over 1,000 finishers a day. Too many!

Accommodation wasn’t a problem. We never booked ahead, although at peak times this could be a risky policy. Prices ranged from 8 euro each per night at pilgrim albergues (hostels; sleeping bag essential), up to 80 euro for a comfortable B&B.

We walked the whole way, apart from the first 10km where we used a metro train to avoid the industrial outskirts of Porto and make our starting point at Vilar do Pinheiro.

Local people were friendly, many wishing us ‘bom Caminho’ as we plodded by. It certainly helped that we had learned a few phrases in Portuguese and Spanish, such as basic politeness, asking the way, buying food.

Roughly half the 240km is in Portugal, the second half in Spain. Although you don’t need a passport at the border, you do need to carry one at all times to prove you have a right to be in Europe.

It’s also possible to start much further south in Lisbon, but by reputation the Camino section from Lisbon to Porto is less enjoyable, as much of the path runs alongside busy roads.

We didn’t need a phone, as the little 2016 guidebook ‘Camino Portugués’ by John

Brierley is excellent and packed with all the information needed.

A similar book covers the 800 km French Camino. If you wish to be awarded an official certificate of completion at the cathedral in Santiago, pick up a free ‘credential’ booklet at the start and have it stamped twice daily.

Expensive package tours are available with guides and pre-booked accommodation but we found independent travel to be easy, plus also allowing the flexibility to walk at our own pace and take rest days.

Above left: Much of the Portuguese Camino follows minor country roads, shared by pilgrims and farmers. Middle left: The scallop shell is a symbol of all Camino trails, and a common waymarker.

Below left: In the old town of Barcelos the Festa das Cruzes takes place in early May. Below right: Much of the area is a patchwork of small farms, with many farmers using pre-modern methods.

Above: Some sections of trail from Porto to Santiago run parallel to busy roads, but never for long stretches. Right: One of many Baroque churches along the way.