My Favourite Walk: Surat Bay and sea lions
Named after a ship wrecked on the Catlins River mouth bar on New Years day 1874, the firm golden sand of Surat Bay stretches 3km to the north.
At low tide, walk alongside the Catlins River for 20-30 minutes as it flows swiftly and deeply by. At high tide, meander back through the forested back dunes – one of the largest and last remaining of its type in New Zealand.
The southern headland of Surat Bay has been sculptured smooth by the wind. The northern headland marks the south end of Cannibal Bay. Close by, the Triplets – three small islands close to the low tide mark, provide a nest site for Stewart Island shags.
Sea, sky and sand scape are ever changing, so be prepared for four seasons within hours. Bull kelp lines the high tide mark, its insects picked over by poaka/pied stilts, matuku/ white-faced heron and torea/variable oystercatchers. On a still day, you may need insect repellent.
Lost to the meditative rhythm of our footfall, we barely registered the parallel lines in the sand leading inland from the water’s edge. Then we saw a dark log in the gently breaking waves. The log heaved itself up and lurched forwards a few paces before collapsing again. A sea lion!
There are an estimated 12 000 New Zealand sea lions (formerly Hooker’s sea lions) which are threatened with extinction. Four to eight year-old adults breed from the Otago Peninsula south to the sub Antarctic islands. Males weigh between 250-400kg, but this was a young male.
The smaller female was already ashore and asleep in the soft sand above the high tide mark. How the young male knew she was there – she was beautifully sand coloured and had showered her pelt in sand – is perhaps a testimony to his sense of smell. He looked exhausted, but then you would be after a day’s fishing.
The male continued to lumber his way up the beach – a few staggered steps, a long rest – until he reached the fine dry sand. Then he rolled around, obviously enjoying himself or perhaps showing off, while he kept a firm eye on the female about 10m away. She ignored him.
After a good five minutes, he ventured a bit closer to the female, who opened an eye. He stopped, but she was not too happy. He rolled around in the sand some more, then lay still. She was having none of it and reared up, baring her teeth. She had big teeth. He didn’t get the message and ventured closer. She moved away. He moved after her, but she was too quick and moved off. We left them to it.
On the mainland, people disturb and sometimes harass fur seals and sea lions by getting too close on foot or by vehicle, allowing dogs off leads, clubbing or shooting them.
There were three pairs hauled out on Surat Bay, and small knots of people were closer than 5m. We were not keen to approach closer than about 20m – I’ve seen fur seals and sea elephants move faster than I can run. It was thrill enough to see them from a distance, and I had binoculars for an excellent view.
To access, drive from Owaka, which has a petrol station, Four Square supermarket and local cafes’, turn off Pounawea Road onto New Haven Road. Turn right again for the Newhaven carpark.