Camaraderie on the Whareama Coastal Walk
The Whareama Coastal Walk is about half way between Castlepoint and Riversdale, on the Wairarapa coast. Follow the road east from Masterton to where the white spire of a church and a few houses mark the site of Whareama village.
The starting point for the walk is the curiously named ICA homestead, down a small side road on the far side of the Whareama River. Set on a rise surrounded by well tended lawns and hedges, this spacious home was built in 1901 in Norwegian style.
Dick and Carmen were there to give us an enthusiastic welcome. The nine walkers arrived from diverse parts of the country. We had a hearty meal together, explored the house and grounds and enjoyed a good rest before the next day’s hike.
The day dawned sunny. We set off in groups, first up a steady climb through farmland following a ridge top fence. There were good views back to some steep bush-covered ridges and fresh green farmland.
Although our ages spanned eight decades, our level of enthusiasm was unrelated to our years. Soon we had teamed up together.
On over a high point and were looking down to the meandering Whareama River. Our lunch stop was at the clubhouse and slipway of the Whareama Boating Club.
From here, the road winds up a steep hill, then descends towards the small coastal settlement of Otahome.
Our walking route took us off road along a valley with huge old poplars, then steeply up through a paddock to the ridge top overlooking the ocean, where a rest stop was
most welcome.
A sea mist swept in, partly obscuring the dramatic profile of Castle Rock to the north. The road led us on to where we spent our next two nights, at Wai Ngaio Retreat, high above the ocean at the southernmost end of Castlepoint Station.
Our bags were waiting, as were instructions for putting together a meal, very welcome at the end of an active day.
In spacious, comfortable and well furnished lodgings, we ate off massive wooden-slab tables.
Outside, there was plenty of activity as a colony of welcome swallows swooped across the adjacent pond and perched outside the kitchen window.
It was fine and warm again next day. A good breakfast helped as we climbed steadily to a high point looking over the coastline. Then we headed west on a farm road, past numerous beehives making a harvest from manuka and other native trees.
Ahead lay rows of ridges leading to the Tararua Range on the horizon.
Lunch was back at the homestead, followed by a refreshing swim in the pool. We were spending the next night at the retreat, and drove our cars back there. This gave us the chance to drive on past Otahome to the end of the road, and to walk on the long, wild beach south of Castle Rock.
Our friendly group broke up next morning, but Carmen encouraged us to take on another walk in the district.
Further up the Whareama Valley, along the road to Castlepoint, a massive sandstone bluff towers over the village of Tinui. Such rocky features are locally known as Taipo, or goblins.
A cross was first erected at the top following the death of many local men at Gallipoli in 1914. Services
have been regularly held there since; 100 people climbed to the top for a dawn service on Anzac Day this year. The walk to the Tainui Cross was described recently by Bob Hodgson in Issue 271 of Walking New Zealand magazine.
Farm walks are a special feature of New Zealand recreation, an opportunity to explore many kinds of landscape different from those in parks and reserves.
Their existence depends on the enthusiasm of farmers to share the love of the environment that is special to them. The opportunity exists only as long as they, and adjoining farm owners, care to provide the service.
Walk them whenever they are available; the opportunity will not last!