Best Dam cycling trip in the world
Busting the 315 km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru
landscape’ (A20 cycle trail brochure). The fierce wind reminded us of its presence as it catapulted a small pine tree across my front wheel and cartwheeled across the flats.
After carefully crossing the main road to Twizel, we turned up a long drive to our farm stay rooms for the night. A delicious plate of nibbles helped to us unwind capped off by a tasty meal again prepared by the multi-talented Ellie and Elder.
The salmon and pavlova didn’t stand a chance and we were still drooling about it for the next few days. What better way to end the day than by stargazing, looking up at part of the Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve and testing our galactic knowledge.
Day Three- Twizel to Lake Ohau Lodge, then to Tarnbrae Track (High Point, 900m) and Quailburn Road
From the wonderful farm stay with friendly dogs and lots of huge tractors and another big breakfast, we cycled through Twizel and then along the Ohau canals. The weather remained fine but the wind still bit us from the front or the side at times. Much of the first section was over Old Glen Lyon Road before dropping off road onto the Lake Ohau Trail.
The large Ohau Weir was another of the ‘must-take-a picture moments’ which continued throughout the excursion.
Maybe you could have even bodysurfed on either Pukaki or Ohau due to the size of the wind-swept waves. Back on Lake Ohau Road the area lived up to its Maori meaning of ‘windy place’. The voracious head wind brought some of us to a complete stop or shunted us across to the other side near Lake Middleton.
The wicked wind created wide water-spouts which spun across the lake like Dementors. One of these flipped an electric biker in another group on her back. She did ride on however.
Should I stay or should I go now?
After lunch, we carried on towards Lake Ohau Lodge. Our guides then suggested that we complete another section of the trail in order to set-up an easier ride the following day. The wind would be either behind us or to the side. The section included the 900m highpoint of the trail, Tarnbrae and was a technical ride.
One of the group decided to get aboard the bus and meet up on the other side. I was wavering but Angela and Richard convinced me to have a go. One of the better decisions I have made.
Through the gate and onto the level 3 Tarnbrae Track. The first 11 km. was a rock-strewn trail that wound steadily upwards through burnt hillsides, evidence of last year’s fire. You couldn’t afford to be in the wrong gear in order to complete the last 2km grunt to the top. I gave myself a severe scolding in order to reach the top. Luckily no one else was around!
I stopped and took a photo of the high-point sign to mark my achievement and also to enjoy the extensive views back towards the lake.
Mr. Dan’s Wild Downhill Ride
It was 8km. down the Tarnbrae Track to Quailburn Road and the historic woolshed. For someone who hates downhill walking, running or cycling, this reminded me of the Disneyland ride recreating Mr Toad’s hair-raising automotive adventure.
A lovely bush section soon after
the top made a welcome change to the rocky climb and there were a few creeks to cross demanding a different focus. There were glimpses of the other riders ahead. Smiling Angela, the downhill queen, finally passed me but it did take her awhile.
After regrouping at the bus near the toilets and historic woolshed, we opted for another 8km of unsealed Quailburn Road towards State Highway 8. This was a good way to finish off a challenging day. Back in the bus to Ohau Lodge.
A long soak in the outdoor spa, gazing at another side of Aoraki, with a beer or bubbles in one hand followed by a sumptuous meal in a crowded, happy lodge dining room made the tricky trail ride worth it.
Day Four- State Highway 8 to Otematata
The wind dropped about 4am. A stunning pre-dawn and sunrise behind a now serene Lake Ohau started the day brilliantly, and was followed by a large mainland breakfast. Back in the bus to drive to where we left off near State Highway 8.
It was Angela’s birthday, so the Stevie Wonder song in honour of Martin Luther King, Happy Birthday
to You, featured on the bus sound system.
There was a pleasant cycle to Omarama for morning tea at the spacious and popular Wrinkly Ram. We headed east down the Waitaki
(water of tears) valley. Cameras were in frequent use throughout the day as so many vistas were crying out to be captured on film as today was all about the crown jewel, Lake Benmore. This was Elder’s favourite section through Pumpkin Point and Sailor’s Cutting on the edge of the lake. Plenty of boats were anchored or out fishing at Sailor’s Cutting where we had lunch.
The guides put balloons on Angela’s bike and thereafter everyone else on the trail wished her happy birthday or asked what happened to the balloons. I was happy because the drag slowed her down and allowed me to catch up once in awhile
Upping the ante again to level 3
The following 16km of new trail up Translator and Rostriever Saddles with views of Turnagain and Junction Islands ramped up to a mix of Grade 2 and narrower Grade 3 difficulty.
At times it was a straight drop to the lake on your left shoulder with little room to the rocky walls on your right shoulder. The stunning scenery made up for it but concentration was needed to negotiate the twists and sudden ascents. Descending through a recently logged area, the Benmore Dam beckoned in all its pristine glory and with beautiful autumnal views towards Otematata.
Benmore is the largest dam in the Waitaki power scheme and the lake is Aotearoa’s largest man made lake filled in 1964. We regrouped for the cycle down the road to a swimming spot near the base of Aotearoa’s largest earth dam.
Not everyone was brave enough to enter the cold water but I am glad I did. There is no better way to ease sore muscles than dive into a giant