Routeburn Track an ultimate alpine adventure
I found a rocky nook and curled into it like a lizard to soak up the returning warmth. So this is what we had been missing. The Falls Hut was built between cascading rushes of water, jagged Humboldt peaks and pictureperfect, stream-strewn flats.
Waterfalls were glistening, Sleigh bells were ringing. After all it was close to Christmas and we had just been given a magnificent present!
Warden Tom from Scotland gave his evening talk saying that he felt right at home in an area that had so many Scottish names, Route burn, Invercargill, Strath-Taieri, Ben Ohau, Glenorchy, Leith, Ben Nevis,etc.
Put your boots under your bed, so the keas don’t chew them to bits! Then he went and talked to everyone about their plans, etc.
The famous Southland twilight lasted long into the evening only nine days from the longest day.
Day 2, Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut, 4 hours 30 mintes-6 hours, 11.3 km.
A cold misty morning greeted us. At 7 am, I left ascending the steep, rocky climb behind the hut to the top of the falls thankful for my Peruvian woolen hat which covered my ears. There was a quick change from bush to alpine environs.
The trees receded to be replaced by mountain daisies, hebes, and succulents. Tarns and Lake Harris dotted the landscape as you climbed to the Tarahaka Whakatipu,/Harris Saddle high point at 1,255 metres having started from the shelter yesterday at 500 metres.
A kea buzzed overhead, then landed on a wood pile and posed for a series of photos ruffling its feathers, turning and twisting. Reluctantly I pushed on to the shelter as the wind picked up.
The trails were solid, jagged and rocky demanding attention. We had to duck under a rock arch to carry on towards the shelter.
Rapid footsteps approached as a hardy trail runner cruised by with light clothing and minimal supplies.
The Harris Shelter was a welcome sanctuary where two Canadian teachers from the falls hut were enjoying a break from the wind.
A father and son had arrived earlier and recounted their harrowing experience on the Milford Track earlier that year. They were told they could walk out by the rangers after others had been flown out due to flooding. Numerous river crossings ensued with the 12-year-old struggling through the rising water at chest height.
At the Harris Saddle we had crossed from Mt. Aspiring National Park into Fiordland National Park. Thankful for the break, we pushed back into the wind after putting on another layer. Tarns dotted the landscape.
DOC ensured a safer descent to Lake Mackenzie, 500 metres below the Harris Saddle, by having provided small bridges, wooden steps and walkways. Valleys began to appear as the thick cloud was burnt off by increasing sunlight. Soon we welcomed another gear change as summer announced itself again.
Waterfalls accompanied our descent as the trail skirted the side of the ‘exposed Hollyford Face, with expansive views over the Darran Mountains’ (DOC pamphlet).
Mt Cook lilies, Great Mountain buttercup, mountain daisy and edelweiss were sprinkled around the hillsides. A shimmering emerald gem materialised in the distance, Lake Mackenzie.
Now the fun began with rocky, undulating switchbacks slowing progress. The final kilometres plunged through thick ribbon wood, with water rivulets making the path greasy.
Eventually the hut came into view, nestled into bush on the lake’s edge. Brilliant sunshine all afternoon meant many of us had a swim in the cold, refreshing water followed by sunbathing on the grassy verge surrounded by snow-capped mountains.