Walking New Zealand

Tantalizin­g Taranaki

- By Phillip Donnell

Maunga Taranaki (2518m) stands like a lonely sentinel defiantly guarding the region to which he gives his name (meaning “barren mountain”). Maori say he was banished from the company of his fellows in the centre of the North Island for having an illicit affair with the graceful Pihanga, wife of the proud and jealous Tongariro.

This distinctiv­e symmetrica­l andesite cone dominates the countrysid­e. He’s the latest of a series of volcanoes in a single line from Moturoa south to Kaitake and Pouakai, both now much-eroded remnants of much larger peaks.

Since Mount Taranaki’s most recent activity happened as late as 1620, he is more correctly deemed a dormant rather than extinct volcano, and is well-known for rapidly-changing moods and weather conditions.

Egmont National Park covers a circular area of 33,527ha extending for a radius of 10km from the summit. It is the obvious and unavoidabl­e focus of any walking excursion into the region. However, Taranaki also boasts three marine reserves, iron sand beaches fringed with great surf, wonderful lakes, spectacula­r parks and gardens, and fantastic museums and galleries. A network of walking tracks links these features and offers a unique perspectiv­e of Taranaki’s legendary landscape.

Footsteps Walking Club’s Tantalizin­g Taranaki day-walks excursion (27 November – 3 December 2022) is an opportunit­y to go and enjoy much of what Taranaki has to offer, including all the key points of historical interest and natural beauty. Whether exploring the alpine splendour of the mountain tracks, imbibing the emerald swards of rolling farmland, or meandering a path along the dynamic littoral, discoverin­g Taranaki by foot will give you an experience like no other.

Begin with the best of New Plymouth, including tooth-like Paritutu Rock, the award-winning coastal walkway (with the unusual Rewa Rewa Bridge), reflection­s in Lake Mangamahoe, the famous Pukekura Park (beautifull­y floodlit at night), and the Te Henui, Tupare or Huatoki trails through picturesqu­e urban valleys.

Venture northwards to the Whitecliff­s Walkway, where the ebony sand contrasts with its pristine ivory backdrop. The Three Sisters play with their Elephant at Tongaporat­u. At 74m, Mount Damper Falls is the highest single-drop waterfall in the North Island and has become a “must see” for travellers.

You are now ready to “hit the mountain” in four bite-size sections – first its northern flank, then eastern, southern and western slopes.

From the North Egmont Visitor Centre, the very fit and adventurou­s could attempt a summit climb. An out-and-back jaunt from Mangorei Road to the famous Ruahumoko Tarn is another demanding workout. Most, however, will settle for less strenuous options such as one of the Ngatoro, Veronica, Maketawa or Tahurangi loops, perhaps combined with the Connett Walk or Holly Hut Track Lookout.

Eastern delights emanate from the Stratford Plateau. Mangonui Gorge channels you inexorably to the mountain’s sole skifield.

The Enchanted - Waingongor­o combo crosses one of the deepest fern-lined canyons in the park. Kamahi, Patea and York Loops can all be traversed in a day, and in the evening you can climb through the predator-proof fence at Lake Rotokare to spot kiwi.

The southern slopes of Egmont have a somewhat different origin. When the volcano was active, material thrown up from the crater fell back into it, blocking the main outlet. The forces within, lacking the power to blow out the plug, escaped through the side to form the subsidiary Fantham’s Peak (1968m), named after Fanny Fantham, who in 1887 was the first woman to climb it.

You can do the same in five to six hours return. Alternativ­ely, shorter walks from the Dawson Falls roadend are equally breath-taking. Konini Dell, Hooker Shelter, Hasties Hill and Kapuni Circuit are worthwhile, but the pick of the bunch is the Wilkies Pool Loop.

Several towns dot the South Taranaki Bight: Patea, Hawera, Manaia, Opunake, Okato and Oakura, These afford convenient café pauses as you explore the western periphery. Long and challengin­g trails trend upwards from the park boundary to Waiaua Gorge, Kahui Hut and Bell’s Falls.

Alternativ­ely, the dramatic coastline is best sampled via the Ohawe to Waihi Beach Coastal Walkway, taking you past the fortified pa where Maori first lived, cliffs made of 3-million-year old soft papa rock, a wide range of sea life in numerous rock pools, Rangatapu Marae, and the remnants of a pioneer tram trail. Cape Egmont lighthouse and Parihaka are worth a visit.

In 2017 Taranaki was voted by “Lonely Planet” as the second best region in the entire world to visit. They were impressed by the huge variety of attraction­s in what is a relatively compact area. You will be impressed too.

Why not come and join us next summer for a week of walking which is not only good for body, soul and spirit but also surprising­ly kind to the pocket. For details please visit our website www.footstepsw­alkingclub.com or contact us at 021 172 3244/ footstepsa­nz@gmail.com.

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 ?? ?? Above right: The Coastal Walkway is popular with walkers, runners and cyclists.
Below left: Mt Dampier Falls.
Above right: The Coastal Walkway is popular with walkers, runners and cyclists. Below left: Mt Dampier Falls.
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