Walking through history in Ireland

In August the year before the Covid lockdown we went wandering around the tourist spots of Northern Ireland, and the North West of Ireland.

Starting in Belfast we drove to Derry, where old grievances are still very much apparent. Outside the city walls, huge murals depict the everlasting controversy . Things seem

Above left: Retracing steps to Donnard Wood with views over the Irish Sea.

Above right: Donard Wood and the Glen River by Slieve Donard. Middle left: Dunluce Castle on the Causeway Coast.

Below left: An old cottage by the famiulne village.

Below right: Cairns marking the way to MacKoght.

harmonious, but underneath lots of resentment still simmers. Here, any local approached for directions, would be eager to tell us the history of the area from the time of the ‘plantations’ in the 17th century; while some wanted to retell life from 1060.

We journeyed west over an invisible border to Donegal, where currency was suddenly in Euros, rather than in British pounds.

Travelling north we explored villages on the Inishowen Peninsula, where roads are no wider than many of our walking tracks.

The road followed the shores of Lough Swilly, which has played a significant part in Ireland’s history - many fleets being intercepted at its entrance.

It is also the inspiration for John Newton’s famous song ‘Amazing Grace’. When he nearly lost his ship in a violent storm in the Atlantic, he found refuge in this Lough. He wrote the song in 1773 to celebrate the ‘miracle’.

On the coast of Lough Swilly, we visited the remains of Fort Dunree (An Dun Riabbach) This Fort was built during the Napoleonic period, in a strategic position,. to protect the

Above right: The coast at Jordans Castle.

Below right: Mussenden Temple on the Causeway Coast. west coast of Ireland and was used during WW1, as a coastal defence. It is now a military museum. Continuing north, we wandered through the Doagh famine village, from where, over a million people emigrated to USA and Canada during the mid 1800’s.

We ventured south, stopping to walk around Horn Head (Corran Binne). This headland with its wild rugged coastline, rises a sheer 600ft out of the Atlantic, giving awesome views of many islands and promontaries, and endless ocean.

Our next stop was Corcreggan Mill Hostel - a lovely stone building, beside the old Mill House and wheel. This mill is situated midway between Dunfanaghy, where many people from Scotland have holiday houses, and Falcarragh, an area of staunch Gaelic speakers. Although only 8kms apart, they seemed like two different countries.

We left here to climb Mt Errigal (An Earagail)- 751m - the highest peak in both Derryveagh Mountains