Exploring Somes Island
We were lucky to have a perfect Spring day to explore Somes island in Wellington Harbour. Leaving Queens Wharf, a ferry stops at the island, and continues to Days Bay.
We stayed on the boat for an extra ride, and landed on the return journey, because numbers are limited to 15 landing at any one time. This allows the resident ranger to supervise bag checks, so no pests are brought on to the island, which is a predator free scenic reserve.
Matiu/ Somes is a tiny island of only 25ha but with a big history. Originally named Matiu by Kupe, in honour of a daughter, it was inhabited by groups of Taranaki hapu and iwi in the 1820’s and 30’s.
In 1839 it was renamed Somes, after the deputy governor at the time, and the crown assumed management. In 1866 the lighthouse was built here - the first harbour light in the country. It was replaced in 1900 and later automated.
In the 1860’s and 70’s, steamers took tourists for picnics to the island, but this ended when the ship ‘England’ arrived with smallpox. A quarantine facility was built, and a monument stands on the island to those who died while confined there.
From 1870’ s to 1920’s Somes was used for human quarantine, isolating those with Smallpox,
Typhoid, Scarlet fever, and in 1919 the Flu.
For the next 15 years these buildings were occupied by penguins and grey ducks. It also served as an animal quarantine station for 100 years from the 1880’s. Livestock from all over the world were kept there, until given a clean bill of health. This was closed in 1995.
Somes Island also played a large role in defence and security strategies for both world wars. It was also a camp for enemy internees, who were occupied with building, gardening and fishing.
In WW11 a de-gaussing station was built on the eastern shore, and operated by Wrens. This de-magnetised ships, to protect allied shipping from magnetic mines. In 1942-3 five anti aircraft gun emplacements were built on the summit, but were never used.
In 1995 DOC. took over management of the island, and in 1997 the island was assigned the official bilingual name of Matiu/Somes in acknowledgement of its Maori/European history. In 2009 a treaty claim was settled, giving joint Iwi/Crown partnership in managing the island.
It is now a predator free scientific reserve, open to the public. There are well marked and maintained tracks right around the island to the lighthouse.
On the warmer north facing track, we saw several skinks and a gecko. If you’re lucky you may see a tuatara.
Scattered along the trails were hinged posts, marked ‘Weta Motel’. When opened they exposed huge wetas (behind Perspex).
We saw loads of gulls nesting on rocks and in scrub on the cliffs. Robins hopped along beside us, and tuis chatted in the trees. Lots of little penguins nest and raise their young along the rocky coastline.
Trails also led across the top to the trig station and gun emplacements. The views were spectacular giving 360 degree views of the harbour, with city buildings in the background, so close, yet so far away. It was so quiet and tranquil on the island, with the only sound being bird cries and the sea.
If you’ve never been to Matiu/Somes Island, put it on you bucket list. It’s a delightful place to explore, for any age, and only a stone’s throw from Wellington.