Oasis in the desert

There’s ugly outside but plenty of pretty within

SET UP AND SITE: Serious question: is there any part of Auckland uglier than Kumeu? Riven by the railway line that manages to put both sides of the village on the wrong side of the tracks, it’s a higgle-piggle of timber yards, tyre shops and building supply stores. I can hear the hackles rising in the west so hasten to add that the drive past the vineyards and the forests and the horse paddocks more than makes up for the ugliness that State Highway 16 thrusts you into. Meus is an oasis of loveliness. Much care has gone into making an attractive space in which to enjoy a turmeric latte. It’s light, airy, clean and Scandinavian in colour and vibe.

SUSTENANCE AND SWILL: Torn between the seafood omelette (Kumeu feels a little far from the coast to risk it) and eggs benedict, I settled on the latter, which was imaginatively paired with pork shoulder, apple slaw and a chipotle hollandaise ($18.50). I savoured every spiced mouthful, amazed there was such beauty among the ugliness beyond the door, and finished with the eggs, poached to perfect runniness. My companion’s french toast was the visual feast Kumeu lacked: colour, sparkle and excitement that came with banana mascarpone, seasonal fruit and maple bacon ($19).

SERVICE AND OTHER STUFF: Why is it so difficult to get a hot coffee in Auckland? Surely it’s not too much to ask to mix beans with water that is just on the too-hot side to gulp rather than being cool enough to scull? It should be warm enough to wrap one’s hands around while enjoying a conversation while waiting for the main act. That said, the turmeric latte met the other requirements of taste and speedy arrival at the table. Helen Van Berkel