Weekend Herald - Canvas - - CONTENTS - Sue Bax­alle


A sunny Satur­day morn­ing was the per­fect ex­cuse for an ex­pe­di­tion to Devon­port, along with the prospect of try­ing out a new — to us — cafe. We found Von­del eas­ily, on the town­ship’s main road. Park­ing proved easy, on a side road. It is a pleas­ant space, with ta­bles and chairs in blond wood and the tiled counter and bar area, teamed for a classy look. On one wall is a large, in­trigu­ing V sculp­ture.


The first menu we were given was headed “week­day brunch”. This be­ing a Satur­day, I queried this and the waiter quickly amended the er­ror — the menus hadn’t been swapped over for the week­end ver­sion. This of­fered a va­ri­ety of break­fast-style fare, ta­cos, burg­ers, squid and extras. My brunch com­pan­ion opted for the bub­ble and squeak (with spinach, poached eggs, vine toma­toes, cit­rus and sage hol­landaise, $18) and a side of Ora king salmon ($6). Rather than go for tried-and-true mush­rooms or eggs, I de­cided to try the “full ve­gan” of scram­bled tofu, fa­con, vine toma­toes, tater tots, kalettes and sour­dough ($18). Von­del has a cou­ple of ve­gan op­tions on the menu, along with gluten-free, so are aware of di­etary needs. While we waited, we shared a pain au choco­lat from the counter (Von­del had just a few pas­tries and a cake on the counter, so not a place for cabi­net-fare fans), which teamed well with the Supreme cof­fee. The meals ar­rived, well pre­sented on stoneware plates. The bub­ble and squeak con­coc­tion was tasty, with the hol­landaise adding a good tang to the well-poached eggs. How­ever, the salmon was overly fishy and re­mained on the plate. The waiter was apolo­getic about this, tak­ing the salmon off the fi­nal bill. I had been cu­ri­ous to try the “fa­con” but to my taste buds it was def­i­nitely no match for the real deal. The rest of the meal was fine — the tofu go­ing well with the toma­toes and the kalettes — which I dis­cov­ered are a cross be­tween kale and brus­sels sprouts. Def­i­nitely a veg­etable to seek out at the gro­cery store.


The ser­vice was top-notch, the waiter at­ten­tive and ef­fi­cient. Af­ter the menu mix-up it was un­for­tu­nate that the salmon was sub-par, mak­ing for a lower score for an oth­er­wise pleas­ant cafe.

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