Weekend Herald - Canvas

The Parkhouse

A road trip out west proves a success

- Alice Peacock

SET UP & SITE:

It’s a grey, drizzly Sunday when my companion and I venture out to Whenuapai. I’m going to blame the distractio­n of the weather for our mishap in getting there, as we drove straight past the turn-off into the township and then had to do a U-turn on a narrow country side street to get back on track. Parking is plentiful on the streets surroundin­g The Parkhouse, which is neighboure­d by houses uncannily reminiscen­t of the set of The

Stepford Wives. Arriving at the cafe, I’m surprised by how chic it is. There is a certain degree of snobbiness that creeps up on you after living in Auckland for a few years — you begin to expect a bit less of hospitalit­y joints outside the central city. With a high ceiling, light wood and a lot of white, it’s both modern and welcoming. It’s nearing midday when we arrive and the place is packed with couples and young families.

SUSTENANCE & SWILL:

I order the “open omelette” with serrano ham, greens, pickled mustard and parmesan, and my companion orders chilli labneh eggs. She orders a flat white (beans are Don Wilfredo) and we share a berry mango smoothie. Becky reports the coffee is great (“strong and smooth”). The smoothie could be better — it’s pulpy and clogs up the straw. The food, however, is great. My omelette is perfectly cooked and beautifull­y presented, with a nice eggs-to-topping ratio. Delicate slices of ham are curled on top of greens, with parmesan and a sprinkling of mustard seeds providing some nice texture. The only improvemen­t I would have suggested was more cheese. Becky’s eggs are also good. Oddly, the aspect of the dish I don’t stop hearing about is the bread. A sliver of “pide” (though it more resembles ciabatta to me) is thrust on to my plate and I have to agree with her — the toast is the perfect mix of fluffiness, with a crisp outer. A swirl of spicy yogurt on the plate is paired with charred peppers and a couple of hearty slabs of halloumi. The glass cabinet is good enough to convince Becky to grab an almond croissant to go. It’s good and light but I’m slightly disappoint­ed at a lack of filling.

SERVICE & OTHER STUFF:

We’re greeted upon walking in and our waiter is the right level of attentive. While we are dithering over menus and the calamity of smoothies vs coffee, he brightly suggests we make a decision before he waits on a huge extended family that has just arrived. The Parkhouse seems to have the right set-up to make it a neighbourh­ood hit.

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