Ed­dies & El­speths

Weekend Herald - Canvas - - CONTENTS - Chris Schulz


Next to a main road, op­po­site a large con­struc­tion site, Ed­dies & El­speth is a short drive from the main stretch of Mt Maun­ganui’s shops. The bak­ery re­cently ex­panded to in­clude a full cafe ser­vice, on a cor­ner where park­ing is in hot de­mand. We man­aged to se­cure one, then dashed through the rain only to find all the cosy in­door seats were taken. Then our luck changed: the sun came out, and our out­door ta­ble un­der an awn­ing with a fresh spring breeze be­came the per­fect place to be. Many oth­ers thought so too, judg­ing by the con­stantly re­volv­ing front door. Clearly, word has spread about what a good start Ed­dies & El­speth has made.


The menu is strong — so strong we spent a full 15 min­utes choos­ing what to or­der. The kids set­tled on a mouse­trap ($6), which came with gooey cheese and a salty spread of miso, a plate of beau­ti­ful waf­fles adorned with berries and cream ($8.50), a co­conut milk­shake ($7.50) and berry kom­bucha ($5). The adults overordered with ba­con and egg and fried chicken bao ($14), the sweet potato pan­cakes ($17.50), and kim­chi waf­fle fries ($12). Ev­ery­thing came with ex­tras, from the crunchy gra­nola on the pan­cakes, to the crisp radish and sprouts on the bao. But the stand­out dish was the kim­chi fries: freshly fried crin­kle-cut pur­ple ku­mara crisps with home­made kim­chi, chillis, greens and a smear of aioli. It was good — so good a fight nearly broke out over the last few bites. The chai ($5) was de­cent and the cof­fee ($5) was strong, punchy and landed on our ta­ble be­fore we’d fin­ished or­der­ing. You’ve gotta love that.


A near-per­fect cafe ex­pe­ri­ence but Ed­dies & El­speth loses half a star for the site’s weird set-up. If you want to or­der cabi­net food from the “El­speth” bak­ery, you’ll need to go to a sep­a­rate counter from the “Ed­dies” cafe, where you or­der off the menu. It’s con­fus­ing and un­nec­es­sary. Surely these could be amal­ga­mated? Thank­fully, ev­ery­thing else is per­fect. It was a busy lunchtime but ev­ery dish ar­rived In­sta­gram-wor­thy. Oth­ers opted for a de­li­cious-look­ing pas­try or slice from the cabi­net. We couldn’t help our­selves and grabbed a choco­late-cov­ered gra­nola bar for the trip back to Auck­land. But we’re al­ready dream­ing of our next trip to try the squid ink crum­pets, sticky rice por­ridge, baked eggs and shred­ded roast chicken sand­wich with chimichurri sauce. Mmm. Can’t wait.

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