Sweet rea­son

Nice brunch if you can get it

Weekend Herald - Canvas - - BRUNCH -


The Gothic pink fa­cade of the Chelsea Sugar fac­tory has haunted the dreams of gen­er­a­tions of Auck­land chil­dren who have glimpsed it from the har­bour bridge and as­sumed it to be the real life home of evil wiz­ard Gargamel. Is there any other Auck­land land­mark that has loomed so omi­nously for so long in such a beau­ti­ful lo­ca­tion?

The newly-opened cafe should change that: a water­front-perched, el­e­gantly-land­scaped, grass and glass won­der­land, with views across to the bridge and city sky­line that can jus­ti­fi­ably be called incred. There’s a nice play­ground for the kids. It’s a nice place to be, and a week af­ter it opened the bulk of Auck­land al­ready ap­peared to know it.

The cafe is part of a devel­op­ment, in­clud­ing ed­u­ca­tional and in­ter­ac­tive ex­hibits, which the man­ager of New Zea­land Sugar Com­pany es­ti­mates will draw 60,000 peo­ple in its first year. The Satur­day morn­ing we vis­ited, one week af­ter it opened, the cafe alone ap­peared to con­tain roughly 10 times that num­ber.


The chilli scram­bled eggs ($18) were el­e­gantly laid among a sprouty ar­range­ment and came with fried shal­lots and dry-cured chorizo. There were gen­er­ous splashes of chilli oil. My wife wanted the eggs bene­dict but they’d run out of rosti so she had ba­con and eggs ($16).

We or­dered ex­tra ba­con (at $5 each) and were pleased we did be­cause the free-range streaky rash­ers were smoked to within an inch of their fatty lives and opened out beau­ti­fully, flavour­wise. The poach on both eggs was good. The sour­dough toast was good. Hon­estly, the food was

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