BRUNCH Kind

Wel­com­ing vibes and hung co­conuts tick the boxes

Weekend Herald - Canvas - - CONTENTS - Alice Pea­cock

SET UP & SITE

It’s only a cou­ple of weeks since Kind and the sur­round­ing Morn­ing­side precinct opened. For a Mon­day morn­ing, it’s hum­ming. The eatery is both mod­ern and homely, a light open space with plenty of glass and plenty of green­ery. Hang­ing flow­ers cre­ate a great indoor-out­door flow and the space is do­ing its best to cap­ture the few rays of sun Auck­land is of­fer­ing up. Side note — I had been here the week­end be­fore for cof­fee and the deck out the front of the cafe proved a glo­ri­ous spot to en­joy some week­end sun. As a res­i­dent of neigh­bour­ing sub­urb San­dring­ham, I’m a long-time fan of Crave, the cafe just a stone’s throw away. The new joint is es­tab­lished and run by the col­lec­tive, and like Crave, op­er­ates as a so­cial en­ter­prise. Kind cer­tainly has the same wel­com­ing vibes, we’re wel­comed as we walk in and nab a ta­ble be­side group of mums with bubs.

SUSTENANCE & SWILL

Kind’s menu is plant-based — but not to the ex­tent it’ll alien­ate the meat-lovers or any­one suf­fer­ing from a big night. The menu cov­ers all of the ba­sics while re­main­ing in­ter­est­ing enough to hold a place in Auck­land’s highly com­pet­i­tive brunch mar­ket. “Eggs any style” ($11.50) is jazzed up with za’atar, cul­tured but­ter and herbs, while pan­cakes ($18) come with blue­berry and ap­ple, cus­tard, white choco­late crum­ble and a de­lec­ta­ble sound­ing but­ter­scotch mas­car­pone. They sound dreamy but I’m after some­thing with a lit­tle more sustenance. After some um­ming and ahh-ing and after a few ques­tions — “What is ‘hung co­conut?”’ — I set­tle on the av­o­cado ($17.50). It’s not smashed — free­ing me of any stigma re­lated to be­ing

SER­VICE & STUFF

a mil­len­nial, right? In­stead it comes with smoked chilli peanut but­ter, pis­ta­chio dukkah, Mid­night Baker toast and mac­er­ated heir­loom toma­toes. The com­bi­na­tion is un­ex­pect­edly great, and I’m left won­der­ing where I can nab a jar of the peanut but­ter for my­self. My com­pan­ion goes for the whipped goat’s cheese, a hearty dish piled with beet­root “three ways”, a poached egg, edamame, hung co­conut and hazel­nuts. The poach is good and the beet­root, which comes salt baked, cured and smoked, is la­belled “dope” by my com­pan­ion. That’s a tick.

The ser­vice at Kind is fault­less — we’re wa­tered and caf­feinated very quickly after our ar­rival. Our wait­ress helps us through our dither­ing stage by of­fer­ing sug­ges­tions and an­swer­ing ques­tions, though she doesn’t seem to know ex­actly what “hung co­conut” is ei­ther. That aside, the eatery is a de­light­ful ad­di­tion to a sub­urb that’s rapidly up­ping its game. A re­turn trip for an evening meal is surely on the cards — if for noth­ing else but to try the de­light­fully named “morn­ing cider” tip­ple.

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