Concealed arts

Tricks of the trade

Getting to grips with concealer is as simple as understanding the term is a misleading catch-all; there isn’t a concealer in existence up to disguising issues as diverse as scarring, spots and sun damage. One that can soften the bluish shadows appearing under the eyes when you’re tired is too light to camouflage scars or birthmarks. When applied all over the face, a concealer grunty enough to minimise a portwine stain will look like a mask. Different types do different jobs. Here’s a concise 101.

Under-eye circles. Foundation goes first, lightweight concealer second. The right shade of concealer will be one or two shades lighter than your foundation or skin tone. Press it into the skin with clean fingers and then cover with a light dusting of powder. Blotchy skin. Foundation or tinted moisturiser is usually better at smoothing out blotchy skin than concealer.

Blemishes. Choose a creamier concealer an exact match for the skin tone. Apply with a concealer brush and then lock in with a very light dusting of powder. It’s far better to apply concealer in a series of light layers than in one thick one.

Pigmentation. Brown recommends applying spot concealer a shade lighter than your skin tone to the affected area and then blending bronzing gel around the face starting at the cheeks. The combo results in more even skin tone.

Redness. Use a green-tinged concealer underneath foundation, not on top.