Annabel Langbein
Peaches, almonds ... coming up roses
Sometimes it’s not until you see plants and trees growing that the bits of the puzzle fall into place. When you look at a peach tree and compare it to an almond tree, it’s obvious right away that the two are closely related – not just because their blossoms look similar, but also because of the way they fruit and the form of the trees. But while the appeal of a peach or a plum is its succulent, juicy fruit, for an almond it’s all about the kernel of a nut inside.
Both the peach and the almond share their lineage with the beautiful blooming rose. Other members of the rosaceae family are less easy to pick — for example, the trailing vines of blackberries or the soft-leaved plants of strawberries. All, however, are defined by seeds and pips (currants and gooseberries are another family entirely).
Whether juicy stone fruits such as apricots, cherries and plums; pipped fruits, such as apples, pears and quinces; or seed-clustered berryfruits such as strawberries and raspberries; the parade of delicious flavours from this bountiful family carries us through the entire growing season, starting in early spring with the first strawberries and finishing in autumn with apples, pears and quinces, then finally, just before winter, we have almonds.
While almonds are the latest harvest in this prolific family they are, in fact, the very first to bloom. In Wanaka, when a soft pink cloud of almond blossom pings out from an otherwise muted winter landscape, I know spring has arrived. Once pollinated, the flowers set tiny green fuzzy fruit, which at this stage look just like peaches. For a fleeting whisper in the spring, before their shells harden, green almonds can be picked and eaten raw. Pick them too early and there isn’t much of an “almond” inside yet; pick too late and the hull has turned tough and bitter, the shells protecting the seed have hardened so you can’t easily get inside.
Just before the shell hardens (in November or December, depending on where in New Zealand you live) crack them open between your teeth and take out the small creamy white “nut” that has formed inside. It’s an incredible taste sensation – milky and crunchy with a floral, almost peachy, sweetness. I tend to just eat them straight from the tree but if you can be bothered to collect a bowlful, pop them in a salad. They are also wonderful pureed and added to polenta or pasta sauces or as a garnish for desserts.
Green almonds will keep for only a couple of weeks in the fridge. Mature almonds, on the other hand, will keep in their shells for a year or more, provided they are stored in a cool, dry place. Like other nuts, almonds go rancid quite quickly once they have been shelled. Storing them in the fridge or freezer extends their shelf life.