Annabel Langbein
Explore the fascinating culture of Japan’s cuisine
This week, on April 15, there would have been 100 days until the start of the Olympics in Tokyo. In the lead-up to this now-postponed event, I found myself wondering what the Japanese athletes — and all others — would be eating. Japan has such a unique food culture that has somehow managed to remain impervious to the vagaries of food fashions. Tokyo, on the other hand, is one of the great food capitals of the world, with more than 140,000 restaurants and more Michelinstarred restaurants than any other city.
Japanese food is perhaps best known for its exquisite balance, impeccable technique, a focus on aesthetic and thoughtful restraint. It’s always amazing to see how Japanese cooks and chefs use flavours such as miso, shoyu, mirin and rice vinegar, to bring a unique complexity to simple preparations of rice, seafood and vegetables.
In recognition of centuries of cooking practices in Japan, “washoku”, traditional Japanese cuisine, was designated a Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013. At its heart, washoku is simple preparations of rice and side dishes made with a variety of seasonal ingredients. In Japanese, the word for food is the same as the one for rice. Without it, a meal is not a meal.
The structure of a washoku meal relies on the principle of “ichi ju, san sai” — “one soup, three side dishes”. This is meant to accompany a bowl of steamed rice. These dishes provide a variety of flavours, textures and colours as well forming a well-balanced, nutritious meal.
Washoku dishes reflect the four seasons. In the spring there will be tender young buds and baby leaves. Summer brings lightly pickled vegetables. Chestnuts form a focus of autumnal cooking and root vegetables take the stage in the winter.
SA-SHI-SU-SE-SO is the acronym for the fundamental flavourings. Sa for sato — sugar; shi for shio —salt; su is vinegar; se for seiyul — shoyu or soy sauce; and so is for miso.
Seafood and seaweed greens have always been central to the traditional Japanese diet. For centuries, eating meat was forbidden due to Buddhist traditions; with tofu and seafood the main sources of protein. However, for the past 100-odd years, beef and pork have also been integrated into everyday eating.
We may not be able to head to Japan enjoy the Olympic action this year but bringing the flavours of Japan into your home kitchen is a wonderful way to open a door to explore this fascinating culture.