Annabel Langbein /

Thought and care are the most important ingredients for a special meal

My mother was the queen of lunch. If I think about it, it was all about the amazing table she set. A just-picked bouquet of flowers, place mats and cutlery, ironed linen napkins, lit candles, water and sherry glasses (a little glass of sherry was de rigueur for mother’s lunches) set the scene. There were always little bowls of cherry tomatoes, olives and gherkins, a loaf of fresh bread ready to slice, sometimes some homemade paté or sliced cold meats. A space would be left for a salad and a big mat set above her place setting, where something hot from the oven would be served. Just before everyone sat down, one of mother’s famous savoury tarts or pies would be produced from the oven, a green salad would be tossed and just like that, lunch was served. For very little effort there was this wonderful sense of a feast. It always felt so welcoming.

In many ways, my mother’s philosophy about food was way ahead of its time. Like many women of her generation, she was all about farm-to-table eating — there really wasn’t anything else on offer back then, and post-war life was rooted in resourcefulness. Beyond this, my mother was very focused on the importance of nature in our lives. We were brought up with the understanding that everything you eat, or might want to eat, starts out as a seed or a spore which can take weeks, months, sometimes years before it is ready to eat. In my mother’s world (and now in mine and my children’s) the acts of cooking and eating are all about honouring nature. Even if it’s something as simple as washing a lettuce, or peeling potatoes, you do the job thoughtfully and with care. When it comes to eating, go to a little effort to set a welcoming table. In this simple act you create a sense of welcome and celebration.

At home in the weekend and school holidays, our weekend lunches were simple but filling. In summer Dad would make tomato soup with tomatoes he’d harvested from his garden, or we’d have sliced cold meat, salad, mayo chutney, cheese and bread kind of an assemble-your-own Ploughman’s Lunch. Autumn and winter saw a regular lunch favourite called Oakhill Potatoes dished up. This involved lots of sliced cooked potatoes, halved hard-boiled eggs, and bits of crispy bacon smothered with a tasty cheese sauce (with mustard powder and a little nutmeg). Dried breadcrumbs went on top and the whole thing was baked for about half an hour until bubbling and golden and crispy on top.

Here’s to weekend lunches at home. Invite some friends over, and set the scene with a pretty table. A savoury tart or a quiche remains one of the most delicious lunch offerings partnered with a crispy green salad. Here are three of my faves. Enjoy.