‘Everything has a time and place, even prosecco’
Angela Allan, NZ Sommelier of the Year 2022 on how she came to love wine
I’m originally from the Niagara region of Canada, which, like New Zealand, is a fine wine-producing region. Every year we would have a celebration of the harvest, the Grape and Wine Parade. It was a huge event that paid homage to food, wine and music; my three great loves. These memories were formative for me and its perhaps why I ended up in my career as a sommelier, but I came to wine from a love of beer. I would make my own garage brew and experiment with different malts and hops as a teenager. I was contemplating Belgian beer and how it has such a distinctive character, and this led me down the path of wine, getting to know where it comes from. I still love beer though; people might find this surprising as wine professionals are often assumed to be one-track minded.
The best part of my job is helping people to find and fall in love with wine. A sommelier’s work isn’t limited to wine, it could be coffee, tea, sake, spirits, beer. I listen to the guests’ tastes and help them in making an informed decision. That is the short answer, but really it is ALL about hospitality. Giving a great experience and making people feel special is an art. I am hugely passionate about hospitality. There are poetic wines that I’d like to share but everyone has different taste. I love to ask questions and really get to know people. I don’t think wines are good or bad ... I mean, they can be faulty, with cork taint, for example, but it is really a question of preference; everything has a time and place, even prosecco. People are so savvy now, wine apps have really increased average knowledge of wine. I was also a chef for several years, so I’m heavily into food pairing.
Choosing wine is all about making memories. I have so many wine memories. I had a dreamy time travelling to Paris for the Best Sommelier of the World competition, where I tried so many sublime rare and aged wines. Other fond memories include picking grapes in Central Otago and drinking sparkling shiraz on the beach at Christmas with my partner. The more I have got into wine over the years, the more it affects all my sensory memories. Now I can’t even go on a walk without noticing everything, the feel of the rain, the leaves under my feet, the smell of the cut grass. Sommelier training makes you tune into all your senses, all the time.
One of my top recommendations when choosing wine is to start with a glass of sparkling wine, it’s an aperitif, awakens your palate. It can be contemplative, celebratory and help you gather your thoughts to choose a bottle of something more considered for the meal.
Recently, I’ve been selling more grower’s champagne; this is champagne made at the vineyard by the growers, it’s small-scale and artisanal, rather than big champagne house versions. My favourite right now is J.L. Vergnon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, 2010 vintage. It has beautiful complexity, with brioche and bright citrusy notes.
The grower’s story is important. This is where we find the spirit of wine, the soul. Nature wants to make vinegar; people want to make wine. They are the artist painting with all the colours nature has given to them. The vintage is also part of this story, every year each wine is a little different, with different challenges to overcome. This is why I really appreciate the small producers of the world. They are working close to the land, and most of the work is hands-on, no machines. We must keep in mind that most bottles of wine take a whole year to make, sometimes longer — it’s quite incredible. It’s a work of art, and love. Sometimes I think the process of wine making is like a cute married couple, who argue yet love each other a lot. There’s a science behind it, which cannot be ignored; the terroir, the processes, and then there’s the art form; the romance and poetry. Good wine blends both.
Another thing I’m increasingly aware of in my industry is climate change. Some of the historic wine-making regions are challenged by changing climate conditions. But bigger than this, climate change affects us all so profoundly. It’s huge, and it’s coming for us. We must make changes. Every little bit counts.
Trends in wine over the coming year include greater appreciation for wines from Portugal, Greece and Uruguay, and grower’s champagne. My personal mission, however, is to bring sweeter wines back to the table. Luscious dessert wines can really elevate any dinner party and sparkling wines with sugar are great aperitifs. It’s a privilege to be helping other people create unforgettable moments with wine and witnessing the joy.
‘Sommelier training makes you tune into all your senses, all the time.’