5 foodie stops in HAWKE’S BAY
Our Ed Sido Kitchin soaks up the food festival atmosphere
Hawke’s Bay is always a favourite destination for our family vacays, but when I was asked to sneak away for a food and wine weekend, I was happy to go solo!
1 Be prepared
If you’re planning a Hawke’s Bay getaway sans children, go when F.A.W.C! - or the Food and Wine Classic – is on. If, like me, you love indulging in good food and drink while meeting lovely like-minded piggies, this twiceyearly festival celebrating the exceptional produce of the bountiful Bay is for you. I got F.A.W.C’ed for the first time last year, and with over 70 mouthwatering events on offer I was overwhelmed, so left it to my friend and resident gourmand Fiona to be my guide. She reckons the key is to book early (Nov 1-10 is next), select three or four culinary events that fry your burger, pace yourself and prepare to be amazed – and full.
2 Get your groove on
Two hours after landing, my Friday evening is in full swing as I’m whisked to The Urban Winery for a Champagne and Oyster Festival. Waiheke Oysters are shucked before our eyes and my only big decision for the evening is natural or tempura (both thanks!). After having our fill, pizza is sensibly served, conversation flows, a DJ starts playing, the dance floor fills and I soon realise Hawke’s Bay knows how to have a good time. It becomes apparent that F.A.W.C! is as much about mingling as munching – and the friendly locals are happy to get to know you.
3 Take your pick!
The F.A.W.C! programme changes each season, but my first full day is at Black Barn Vineyards in Havelock North, where a showcase of local culinary talent is served up in one spot. Beneath a circle of plane trees and a round marquee, food producers offer delicious morsels, with Al Brown and pals shucking shellfish in the middle. In between making new friends over rosé, we gobble delicious doughnuts from Ya Bon French Baker, The Village Press olive oil on ice-cream (true story) and a tasty Pintxo chorizo bun cooked by Italian chef Paolo Pancotti. Local wineries offer glasses of goodness and I pop nearby to an underground cellar for a regional tasting before heading to a class with the local big cheese of cheese, Juliet Harbutt. She teaches us about the character of eight different cheeses, pairing them with local ciders and apple juice. I only wish I could buy Hohepa’s signature Vintage Danbo on the spot! You can sign up for Juliet’s bespoke Hunter Gatherer tiki tours of the region – ending with lunch (and cheese!) at her place.
4 Feast of nature
If a mystery tour with fab food sounds like you, sign up for the Black Barn Secret Location Lunch with Al Brown. I’m told it’s a winner every year. We’re instructed to wear a hat, sunnies and flat shoes, and to meet at a bus. We pull up alongside the Tukituki River for a meandering meal in three gorgeous spots. On arrival, waiters offer marinated raw fish and – you guessed it – champagne and oysters! Yum! We stroll along the riverbank to an outdoor lounge beneath the poplars. Whitebait fritters and crayfish sliders are washed down with local vino in the sun. Once more we’re on the move, and discover Al and his mates cooking a BBQ meat fest (room for ribs everyone?), served with fresh salads and magnums of rosé. One incredible afternoon.
5 Sweet treats
Round off your foodie getaway with a trip to the Sunday morning Hawke’s Bay Farmer’s Market at the A&P Showgrounds. It’s the perfect place to graze, people watch and meet the Bay’s great growers and artisans. A trip to Rush Munro’s in Hastings for a delicious organic icecream is a must. And pick up bags of fresh fruit from roadside stalls to take home – there’s nothing like a Hawke’s Bay stone fruit. Bite into a nectarine and you’ll go straight back to summers of your childhood.