5reasons to love DUNEDIN
This Southern beauty puts the ‘oh’ in Otago!
Founded by the Scots in 1848, the “Edinburgh of the South” was once our biggest and wealthiest city. This no doubt explains why the stunning architecture has many a visitor’s jaw dropping. Mine was one of them when I recently spent a bit of time here.
1 Blast from the past
For all Dunedin’s historic beauty, in previous visits I struggled to find a hotel with character, but now there’s award-winning The Chamberson in Stuart St, just a couple of blocks down from the Octagon. This recently renovated warehouse – formerly known as the John Chambers & Son building – has all the self-contained mod cons plus exposed brick walls and original windows filling the rooms with light and offering unbeatable views of the city. Stylishly decorated and brilliantly placed for walking just about anywhere you’d want to go, this new discovery is one of my favourite New Zealand hotels.
2 The inside story
Once I settled into my lovely apartment, I wanted to dig up some more history, so I wandered down to the i-Site at 10.30am to embark on the Old Town Walk with guide Athol Parks. There’s nothing like hanging with a local and Athol knows the history of these buildings like the back of his hand. He’s even worked on restoring some of them. We started at the Octagon, dropped by St Paul’s Cathedral, went on to First Church and ended at the gorgeous Dunedin Railway Station with a stop for coffee on the way. Athol also does a tour of the revitalised Warehouse Precinct and, in the afternoons, a Highland Fling which ends with haggis and whisky. Check him out at citywalks.co.nz – highly recommended.
3 Cheese rolls & more
Dunedin is very much a café town. Corner Store and The Perc in Stuart St became homes away from home, and Buster Greens in George St near Knox Church was also a favourite. I loved Heritage Coffee in the Warehouse Precinct – cheese roll with your soup? Yes please! Nearby, Vogel St Kitchen also does a roaring trade and has the most enormous slices of ginger crunch you’ve ever seen. In fact, the portions down this way are generous. Great if there are two who like to share or one who is just greedy. Another find for dinner – although it’s open during the day too – is No. 7 Balmac in Maori Hill.
4 The sandy shores
I think of hats and mittens when Dunedin comes to mind, but even though I was there in chilly times, I had some spectacular beach walks. Yes, it’s cold, but there’s nothing nicer on a brisk, sunny day than rugging up and heading for the coast. The tiny settlement of Aramoana is just a half-hour drive from downtown and the beach here is easily accessible – perfect for a Sunday stroll. For something a little more isolated and stunning in every way, Victory Beach in Wickliffe Bay means quite a trek from the car, but when you cross the dunes and hit the sand – wow.
5 The quirky & quaint
Although I did travel further afield, I could easily have stayed in Stuart Street with my yummy hotel, fave cafés, well-renowned fish and chip shop (Best Cafe) and even a Scottish pub – Albar. And I’m not a second-hand shopper, but I fell in love with Two Squirrels Vintage at number 91. This beautifully curated store with an ever-changing front window caught my eye and is an absolute must-see – pop in and hear the story of these two very special squirrels, Christchurch earthquake refugees with an eye for the still-lovable.