Daily Trust Sunday

Nigeria’s Yemisi Aribisala wins prestigiou­s John Avery Award

- By Abubakar Adam Ibrahim

Nigerian author, Yemisi Aribisala has won the prestigiou­s John Avery Award at the A the André Simon Food and Drink Book Awards announced in London last week, following in the footsteps of famous British Chef, Jamie Oliver, who won the award last year for his book, Super Food.

Airbisala won for her innovative collection of essays, Longthroat Memoirs: Soups, Sex and Nigerian Taste Buds and becomes the first black African to win the award in its 39 years’ history.

Commenting on her win, Aribisala said in a note read by her publisher, Bibi Bakare Yusuf, “There was nothing I wanted to do more with this book than bring it to a dinner conversati­on with like-minded, passionate and engaged people. This book tells the truth about every single Nigerian. This is our food. These are our stories. This is just a slice of our humanity. These are many of the good things we have to offer the rest of the world. I take a lot of pride in being Nigerian. I wrote this book for us but how wonderful it is to share it with you.”

The judges were excited by Aribisala’s mouth-watering account of Nigerian culture revealed through her lyrical examinatio­n of the relationsh­ip between food, politics, religion, ethnicity and sex.

Her win comes as a big boost to her publishers, Cassava Republic Press, the Nigerian start-up that recently set up shop in London to promote works by African writers to an internatio­nal audience.

Gushing over the award, Bakare-Yusuf, a director of CRP said, “Longthroat Memoirs puts Nigerian food culture on the global map. It tells the story of how food reflects the intimate side of a culture and offers the context for reading all Nigerian recipe books. Whether you are Nigerian or not,

book is a beautiful read, introducin­g a terrifical­ly talented writer onto the global stage. This book is our first food title and was a real labour of love. Cassava Republic Press is proud and delighted to have won this prize, especially against such strong competitio­n.”

Food writer and historian Bee Wilson, this year’s food assessor, said: “Longthroat Memoirs by Yemisi Aribisala is a breathtaki­ngly original and fresh piece of food writing, which I found myself not just reading but compulsive­ly re-reading. In her wit and truth telling, Aribisala’s voice reminded me of the writing of M.F.K. Fisher. Whether she is writing about the mucilagino­us properties of okra soup or the sensuous appeal of eggs, Aribisala is that rare writer who makes you laugh while also informing you about Nigerian food, which, as she points out, is something that has been ‘misunderst­ood, atrociousl­y photograph­ed, not yet given its due’. Thanks to this book, this should now change.”

The highly regarded André Simon Food & Drink Book Awards were founded in 1978 and are the most prestigiou­s and only awards in the UK to exclusivel­y recognise the achievemen­ts of food and drink writers. It is the longest running awards of its kind.

Yemisi Aribisala has written about Nigerian food for over seven years; for 234Next and the

Chimurenga Chronic. She has also written essays on various topics including Nigerian Christiani­ty and identity.

Longthroat Memoirs by Yemisi Aribisala is a breathtaki­ngly original and fresh piece of food writing, which I found myself not just reading but compulsive­ly rereading

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