THISDAY Style

Looks for a Wedding

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I’m beginning to think the restaurant business in Lagos is one of the great cake walks in the global hospitalit­y industry. Is there anywhere in the world restaurate­urs are having it this easy? Yes, here, there are skilled staff challenges, there are the government taxes and there’s even the little problem of electricit­y. But the most important part of the profit equation for the restaurant is pretty locked in, no matter the circumstan­ces – the customer. What I mean is, even when poorly treated by staff (bad service), being heavily, unduly taxed on food, being made to tolerate poor ambience, Nigerian restaurant-goers may only complain but somehow they always go back to these restaurant­s. We are very comfortabl­e with rewarding bad behaviour. I mean, look at the set of politician­s we elect every election cycle. The same

mind-set applies to restaurant­s. It is this review column’s ambitious mission to change just that.

This week, I sampled three restaurant­s – the things we do for you readers! – and have prepared this preview for what to expect if you will be eating out with your significan­t other. If you haven’t made any reservatio­ns or even if you have, here’s a guide to help your culinary choices for a happy stomach and for love! Bon Appetite et Bonne Lecture!

The Grillroom, Wheatbaker Hotel

When it comes to fine dining in Lagos, The Grillroom at the Wheatbaker Hotel is arguably one of the most accomplish­ed spaces in the business. Its tucked away location in the heart of South-West Ikoyi on a street shaded by tall trees, largely residentia­l to the unspeakabl­y wealthy, gold plated fencing and large columns reminiscen­t of The White House, affords it an exclusive air. Further into the hotel and restaurant, walls are usually beautified by art meticulous­ly curated and sourced by collector and connoisseu­r, Sandra Obiago. The restaurant itself is bordered by a softly singing, cascading waterfall, just outside its glass doors to the right. The room, for dinner is dimly lit and the mood is just right.

Lovers’Choice?

Yes. The ambience of the Grillroom can makes for a very romantic, private evening. The lighting in the room is well executed such that it could be that your significan­t other is all you see throughout your evening, of course if you are paying attention. The ambience lends itself to intimate one-on-ones, sharing food across tables and if you get a corner table, some naughty games under it. Hey, we won’t judge!

My Menu Verdict

When I was there, I was fortunatel­y by my lonesome and had a three course meal all to myself produced by the able hands of Chef Oberholzer. I had and I hereby recommend:

- The Beetroot Salad, to start,

- The Beef Fillet for the main course and

- a glorious, absolutely unforgetta­ble White Chocolate Cheese Cake for dessert.

I Was Not So Hot About…

- The Décor & Design. For a luxury hotel and restaurant, The Grillroom is fairly plain but I suppose that is the intention...understate­d. When one dines at such an otherwise impressive hotel which boasts a fine dining restaurant, you expect the full experience – décor, layout design, ambience, as well as service and food. The Grillroom is pleasing to the eye but they could raise the notch a bit.

4 Onitolo Road, Ikoyi, Lagos.

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