GINIKA OKAFOR

What inspired you to become a designer of leather goods, and kkeeps you going despite its monumental challenges?

The inspiration to become a designer for leather goods started with the intent to change the narrative of producing and purchasing quality leather footwear in Africa. My love for handcrafted footwear started after I got beaded leather sandals from a friend which she purchased at a local Sunday artisan market in Zambia. I was obsessed with the quality, comfort and durability of the sandals’. Six years after the Yili brand was born. The name “Yili” is an Igbo word that means “to wear”. I wanted a brand name that was authentic, meaningful and a reflection of our colorful Nigerian Culture. I wanted to create beautiful, colorful, vibrant, handmade footwear that represents and embraces various facets of Nigeria – its rich history, artifacts and textiles. Despite the daily challenges that I face as a footwear designer and Producer, what keeps me going is the vision I have for the brand, the daily strides we are making as a company by growing the Nigerian economy and providing employment, the impact we have on our artisans by providing them with a platform to showcase their craftsmanship. Reportedly, local tanneries in Nigeria do not sell leather to home-grown companies. Is this true? Why is this the case? What needs to change?

The local tanneries don’t sell leather to homegrown companies because of the quantity involved. Most of the international buyers purchase leathers from our local tanneries in bulk. The three major tanneries we have in Nigeria are privately owned with profitability as a top priority. Most home-grown companies do not have the capacity to purchase leather in large quantities due to the size/scale of their companies. Buying in bulk is more profitable to the tanneries, hence selling to the international market is deemed lucrative. The Nigerian leather industry has huge potential to become one of the most successful in the world. For this to be achievable, the government has to implement the right structures, build and invest in more tanneries, invest in machinery and set up leather producing factories across the country. Why should the average Nigerian customer – keen on all things foreign – trust a locally made leather product? Most people make the assumption that Nigerians buy foreign because its ‘better’ in branding and quality. What are local leather goods companies doing to match these standards: in storytelling, as well as product quality?

At Yili footwear we pride ourselves not only with the quality of our footwear but also the durability. Our pieces are very sturdy and are made to withstand our climate. Most of the “foreign branded” leather goods are mass produced and although they go through various ‘quality checks” they seldom last long as they claim to. Whereas in Nigeria, in order to dismiss any fear and doubt by customers, local leather companies’ manufacturer are putting place quality control and also ensure that their leather products are durable and compete with international brands. In terms of story telling a lot of Nigerian/African leather designers are owning their narrative and curating their brand in ways that are not only aesthetically exciting but also celebrating the various artisans behind the brand and showcasing the beauty and potential of African craftsmanship. Brands like AAKS, Zashadu, Apaart Africa, Femi handbags, Muji, Joko Edu to mention a few are doing an amazing job at changing the negative stereotype of made in Nigeria/ Africa leather goods. Lastly, the importance of fairs cannot be over emphasized especially for a newly established company as ours. Platforms such as Lagos Leather Fair (LLF) has opened our company up to new customers, improved brand awareness and provided us various networking opportunities. It has put Nigeria as a major stakeholder of leather goods and production in Africa.