In Milan, Fendi and Prada steal the show
Fendi presented a jungle-themed collection aimed at the inner Lara Croft, Prada shone with its own impression of strong women and Emporio Armani invaded an airport on the second day of the Milan Fashion Week last week.
The show at the Prada foundation began with techno beats and the models soon paraded in clothes showing off stylised cracks, cuts and openings. “I wanted to play with all the classic cliches of women’s clothes, the tennis skirts, short coats, hair bands, chiffon blouses... and tear them at the elbow, on the back to show the contrast of the strong woman that Prada has always sought to inspire and represent,” said Miuccia Prada. As ever, Prada’s expression was political and feminist, ‘against the conservatism that is rampant in the world,’ she said.
Influencers and celebrities were in abundance at the Fendi show, from Italy’s Chiara Ferragni, who has 15mn Instagram followers, to the uniquely-styled US hip-hop star Niki Minaj. But they could not overshadow the creative duo of Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi, themselves watched over by Fendi’s chairman and CEO Serge Brunschwig.
Fendi’s jungle-themed Spring/Summer 2019 women’s collection was worn by a host of urban warriors, mixing pragmatism and the exotic as they marched up the catwalk. Jackets and even belts were adorned with pockets big and small, as well as chunky zips. The fabrics were micro-perforated so they can breathe, while the lines, including broad shoulders, were masculine. Nevertheless, there were plenty of leather and poplin corsets to emphasise a more feminine silhouette.
“I like the collection’s mix of rigidity, structure and fluidity, designed for a woman who is high-performing, practical and at the same time sensual,” said Silvia Fendi’s daughter, Delfina Delettrez-Fendi, creative director of her own eponymous brand.
Earlier in the day, Max Mara also presented an Amazonian-themed collection, ready to be deployed in the jungle or savannah: Bedouin-style layers, in ochre, green and grey. Some of the models wore face veils reminiscent of the hijab, while handbags were strapped on to the body.
Supermodel sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid were both on the catwalk on Thursday walking for Fendi. The sisters were later joined by Kendall Jenner on the catwalk.