AFRICAN FASHION
Africa seemed to be a source of inspiration for Western designers, but I didn’t see many African designers on runways
S Africa’s Precious Moloi-motsepe, champion of African fashion, says Africans remain under-represented among the major global brands. She hopes to provide African designers the much needed global exposure
south African Precious Moloi-motsepe, one of the richest women in Africa, is a staunch promoter of fashion designers from the young, vibrant and culturally diverse continent.
Style has coursed through her veins since she was a young girl growing up in Soweto township, and for her the time is ripe for African designers to shine on the international platform.
A decade and half ago, she founded the Johannesburg and Cape Town fashion weeks that bring together designers from across the continent with the aim of setting them up for the global stage. Her goal is now starting to bear fruit, she said, at a brand new luxury boutique in an affluent district of Johannesburg, South Africa's economic capital.
"Now more than ever, African designers are getting recognition here at home," said the 58-year-old, elegantly wearing her make-up and a flowing black trousers with a silk blouse.
"At big events on the continent, musical awards, football events, you will find celebrities wearing local designers," said the wife of Confederation of African Football president Patrice Motsepe. "They definitely have become household names".
With her husband, Africa's the 9th richest man according to Forbes, they are South
Africa's most prominent 'power couple'.
Elsewhere, "celebrities, Michelle Obama or Beyonce,... now wear African brands," she said, adding that the Wakanda phenomenon, linked to the Black Panther movie has "spread our culture, our heritage, to the world. That has an impact on driving fashion as well".
Moloi-motsepe grew up in Soweto, a poor township that was a hotbed of resistance to apartheid regime. It was there where she acquired a sense of style.
"My grandmother made her
own clothes,... and she wore them so elegantly," she said. Soweto people loved to dress up, albeit closely shaped by and following American trends and brands.
Later on, she had an opportunity to travel and attended a Paris fashion show by the talented designer John Galliano. It was a shocking eye-opener, realising that 'designers get their inspiration from history, heritage, culture, which I thought Africa had plenty of'.
Africa seemed to be a source of inspiration for Western designers, "but I didn't see many African designers on runways,"
she said.
Changed mindset
That was the trigger to create a space to propel the best of African creators to global acclaim, a project that the medical doctor-turned philanthropist and creative art financier, set about with vigour.
"First I had to make sure that they were well-recognised here at home, that we changed mindsets, make people appreciate and value African fashion designers," not just as tailors but as respected designers. That was an ambitious challenge, not yet realised but well underway.
"African consumers are now recognising their own designers are as valuable any of the brands they buy globally," she said.
One of those showcasing at the fashion week in Johannesburg last week was Cameroonian fashion designer, Anna Ngann Yonn whose label 'Kreyann' is making a name for itself in Afrialsoca and beyond.
The fashion weeks she launched in South Africa, featuring super models such as South Sudanese Alek Wek and prestigious guests from New York, Milan and Paris, have enabled designers to showcase their work, network with other designers, get attention from media.
The next leg of the mission is to take them to international platforms to ensure the presence of Africa in the global fashion dialogue. Africans in the diaspora are serving key role as ambassadors.
The entrepreneur remembers taking some African designers to exhibit in Paris on the sidelines of fashion shows a few years back.
Some the feedback, was "positive, some not so positive," she said, laughing softly. “But we took that as step in the right
direction. What was important for the young designers and what we thought were established designers back then, and still now, is the voice," she added.
Africans remain under-represented among the major global brands. And in many parts of Africa, sporting foreign brands is still a symbol of social success, she agreed.
"We have a lot of work to do," she said, but the African fashion advocate is not discouraged.
If the thought of retiring your comfortable sweats and choosing a new outfit to leave the house each morning is an intimidating prospect, you may not be alone. Most office-goers think likewise. After a good year or two of 'work from home', many have readjusted to being back in an office - a prospect that may come with numerous challenges, but perhaps, none greater than one looming concern - what to wear?
This guide with inputs from four fashion insiders (in a recent article published in CNN Style) should help you get back in the right mindset for dressing up (or simply getting dressed) for work.
Shop your wardrobe
When in a sartorial panic, there's a tendency to solve it with a shopping spree. But as we all wise up to the impact of our consumption habits on the planet, consider this sustainable alternative - Get your hand out of your pocket and dig deep inside your wardrobe instead.
"It's a first step," said Los Angelesbased stylist Cassandra Dittmer, who suggests you figure out what you have, what you love, what needs repair and what you might want to pass on. You would eventually uncover some hidden gems.
"At the end of the process, you should feel a deeper connection to your wardrobe, find the gaps that need filling and give yourself a great basis to work from each day when putting your outfits together with ease. Buy clothes that fit you across your widest part and tailor the rest inward," she says.
If you live in a country with hot and cold seasons, pack your summer clothes away when fall arrives. You'll be surprised by the aura of newness they take on when you retrieve them from storage months later.
Dittmer, who has built her styling business around eco-conscious values, suggests, "Document your looks and take pictures of outfits you love and feel most confident in. A convenient folder on your phone will make a quick and handy reference point when you are scrambling to pack for a work trip or getting ready in the morning."
Polished comfort
There's a way to dress comfortably without looking bedraggled, and with many employers loosening up on the rules, it's a great time to try a polished but casual look.
Joanna Dai, who left her job in finance to start her own eponymous fashion brand, has noticed a trend away from overly formal office fashion conventions like formal suits and restrictive pencil skirts.
"In the new normal, things have gotten more casual in office," said Dai, noting that, as companies recognise the importance of well-being at work, many have adopted more relaxed dress codes that allow for jeans and sneakers or done away with dress codes altogether.
Embracing more casual attire while also looking professional begins with understanding the importance of quality materials, fit and colour.
"Never underestimate the power of a good fit," Dittmer said. "I'm not talking expensive, Savile Row tailoring, but making sure your trousers are cut to the most flattering fit can be a huge improvement and make you feel really well put together. Most dry cleaners offer very accessible tailoring services."
Focus on fabrics and functionality
Model and the founder of size-inclusive fashion brand Henning, Lauren Chan, agreed a good tailor is important, adding, "Here's a secret - clothes aren't actually meant to fit you. They're built to fit an 'average build' which is - actually - no one. Buy clothes that fit you across your widest part (for me, it's my waist) and tailor the rest inward."
When it comes to materials, most linens, while beautiful, wrinkle easily and are not going to be your friend throughout an eight-hour day at a desk job. On the other hand, polyester is pretty wrinkle-resistant, but it's a synthetic fabric that's terrible for the planet and doesn't breathe - putting you at risk of unsightly sweat patches and a guilty conscience.
Dai also puts a lot of emphasis on what she calls 'high-functioning' environmentally friendly materials, such as micromodal (made from the cellulose of natural beechwood trees in a closed-loop, carbon neutral process) or recycled polyamide
If you don’t feel comfortable in what you wear, it can reflect on how you present yourself and your productivity
olie Arnold
(made from plastic waste like fishing nets and carpet).
Many of the items in her lines are made from wrinkle-resistant, machine washable, stretch materials that are great for people with busy schedules who don't have time to iron or make regular trips to the dry cleaner.
Olie Arnold, style director at menswear e-commerce site Mr Porter, suggests opting for unlined suits. "Go for suits and jackets which are unlined and deconstructed with a breathable fabric," he said, "as they will give you a smart look with a comfortable fit."
And, he advises, if you want to relax your suit further, don't bother with a formal shirt. "If you can push the envelope a little at your workplace, a merino wool long-sleeve polo is a perfect companion, breaking up your outfit without losing that professional look."
A note for newbies
Whether you landed a new role or your first ever job during the pandemic, you might be looking at walking into your office without any prior reference for what people used to wear before Covid.
First off, just ask - it's totally reasonable to ask your colleagues or manager what the vibe is. And if you're still unsure, remember this sound advice from Arnold - "Be yourself, dress for the occasion and make sure you feel comfortable. If you don't feel comfortable in what you wear, it can reflect on how you present yourself and your productivity."
The golden rule - Create your own uniform and then build on it
Set yourself up by establishing some staple pieces that can form the basis of your work wardrobe. A great pair of black trousers, a blazer and some quality shirts can go a long way.