KENYA SAFARI

Potentially lethal wildlife… Flights in motorhomesized aircraft… An unfamiliar country. It’s fair to say that I had my reservations when it came to embarking on a first-time safari – it meant stepping firmly out of my comfort zone.

My feelings were of excitement and apprehension in equal measure. While

I was keen to see majestic animals in their natural habitat that I’d only ever seen in photos or a zoo, the idea of cruising around in an open-sided 4x4 and sleeping under canvas with prowling predators and huge beasts roaming outside seemed preposterous, going against every survival instinct I possessed. Yet, as with many situations involving the unknown, any fears I had were ultimately unfounded.

The location for my safari debut? Kenya. Arguably the world’s best wildlife destination, I’d been told there was no better place for sightings and that if I couldn’t find animals here, I never would. This point was proven almost immediately – on my light aircraft journey from the country’s capital, Nairobi, to the magnificent Masai Mara.

Arriving at the Mara

Flying on the fun-size aeroplanes that perform domestic Kenyan flights is an experience in itself. It’s akin to climbing into a 12-person people carrier with wings – Cessna didn’t name them ‘Caravans’ for nothing – with the pilot and co-pilot sitting fully accessible up front. It was immediately clear to see why the baggage allowance was 15kg in soft-sided bags – the aircraft appeared to weigh little more than this itself and all bags were squeezed into small compartments of varying sizes under the cabin.

I found these short trips highly entertaining and relished the fantastic views from the large windows, enjoying the touch-downs en route to destinations to drop off and pick up other passengers. After an unusually bumpy (and most amusing) landing on my first such stop-off, having already been delighted to witness dozens of zebras, wildebeest and even the odd giraffe from the air, I had a pinch-me moment when I spotted at the end of the runway (dirt airstrip) a herd of elephants shading themselves under the trees. Now that’s something you don’t see at Heathrow.

Feeling fortunate to have already ticked off one of the ‘Big Five’, I was keen to search for more of the same. Yet on the game drive from the airstrip to my accommodation, I was surprised at how thrilling it was to glimpse some of Africa’s more compact wildlife, such as rainbow-like reptiles.

On arriving at our remote lodge in the Mara, I immediately realised that my tent wasn’t as envisaged – a flimsy shelter with no mod cons. No, we were talking glamping accommodation on the grandest of scales, made from robust canvas that felt almost like a permanent structure. With proper beds and bedding, space to hang your clothes and fully-functioning bathrooms boasting towels and toiletries.

Rooms at most camps contain a safe for storing valuables, plus either a reassuring air horn or walkie-talkie, so you can sleep easy knowing that someone will rush to your aid should the need arise. After dark, guests are walked safely back to their rooms by attentive staff, who are generally armed with a spear or gun.

Kenyan camps normally serve fixed courses, which your server will detail beforehand. Only guests with dietary requirements receive something different from other diners. While food, flights and facilities are vital aspects of any trip, a safari in Kenya is, of course, first and foremost about the wildlife.

Game drives usually take place twice daily – once in the early morning and again in the late afternoon or early evening. As I set off on my first official game drive to explore the worldrenowned Masai Mara, I can’t deny that I was filled with a sense of vulnerability. My friendly and informative guide attempted to put my mind at ease, explaining that animals see the 4x4 vehicle as a large entity that’s part of the landscape and ignore it, as they would a tree.

We passed groups of gazelle, herds of buffalo … and before long, my guide slowed to a snail’s pace and simply said, ‘Lion.’ He had spotted a large male and made to pull up some way ahead of it. Both, petrified and captivated, I watched – hardly daring to breathe – as it slowly meandered right up to the vehicle. It then stalked close behind it, swishing its tail as it went and hitting the back of the truck, making me jump almost out of it.

Sightings such as this were by no means isolated and the following day offered the most mind-blowing moment of my entire trip, when we witnessed a female cheetah with her adorable adolescent cub. Even better, after several minutes of patiently waiting, we observed the mother run at full pelt in pursuit of a Thomson’s gazelle.

The best non-wildlife-related discovery for a first-time safari-goer is undoubtedly the obligatory sundowner – as the name suggests, this ritual entails a refreshing drink served as the sun slips below the horizon. As you round off your day’s adventures, your guide will pause your game drive to stop in a spot ideal for celebrating a great day in the African bush.

While seeing Kenya’s array of wonderful wildlife from the ground is undeniably riveting, seeing it from above – from a hot air balloon – is quite literally on another level. A sunrise balloon safari begins with a ridiculously early wakeup call (usually around 4.30am) and ends with a lavish bush breakfast that more than makes up for any lack of sleep. While you’re sure to witness a good variety of wildlife, as you float gently over the treetops it dawns on you that this serene activity is about more than just the animals below. It’s the joy of having a bird’s eye view of Kenya’s vast plains – any wildlife is merely a bonus.

The final safari of my trip was on foot. A walking safari is unlikely to appeal to every traveller – including me. Why would any sane person willingly venture off the beaten track to be so exposed to Africa’s teeming wildlife? Signing the mandatory liability waiver, I wondered what I was letting myself in for; no sooner had I embarked on this ambling adventure than I knew I was in safe hands, however.

We were advised on how to react in different animal-altercation scenarios, before learning about the fascinating landscape, plants and birdlife. Having identified multiple animal tracks and droppings, we heard dozens of vervet monkeys in the tall trees screeching alarm calls, indicating that a leopard was nearby. We did pass several giraffe, plus countless zebra and gazelle.

The highlight of the walk was without a doubt the sight of four noisy hyenas across the plain, whooping and cavorting not far ahead. A little unnerved at this point, I was rightly told that this raucous quartet would ‘give way’ so long as we remained close together. Talk about a walk on the wild side!