Nigerian Fashion Moves Beyond the Catwalk
OVER THE PAST DECADE, Nigeria’s music icons like Burna Boy, Wizkid, Davido, Tiwa Savage, Asake, and Tems have propelled Afrobeats to global prominence. Now, Nigeria’s fashion designers aim to seize the spotlight in an era where African culture captivates the world. Reni Folawiyo, owner of Lagos’ Alara, notes a surge in confidence and creativity among designers, producing contemporary and wearable pieces with pride in African craftsmanship. In 2023, Alara showcased Nigerian fashion at a pop-up in Brooklyn Museum’s “Africa Fashion” exhibit, reflecting a broader trend of global recognition. Institutions like the Brooklyn Museum and businesses like United Airlines are increasingly tapping into Nigeria’s cultural offerings, recognising its importance in global expansion.
Nigeria’s fashion industry, bolstered by international buyers and a growing middle class, thrives with designers like Lisa Folawiyo and Andrea Iyamah. Lagos pulsates with style, from fashion weeks to markets, blending tradition with modernity. Here are some designers shaping Nigeria’s burgeoning fashion landscape.
Several designers are leaving an indelible mark on the rapidly evolving fashion landscape. One such luminary is Mai Atafo, whose career spanning decades defies stereotypical notions of African attire. Contrary to prevalent expectations of raffia and tie-dye, Atafo’s penchant lies in impeccably tailored suits and bridal ensembles, blending traditional
African elements with Western silhouettes, epitomised by his innovative “tradxedo.”
Banke Kuku, renowned for her textile designs, transitioned seamlessly from adorning spaces to clothing. Her luxurious pyjama sets, originally conceived to complement her interior designs, gained traction during the pandemic, evolving into versatile loungewear suitable for any occasion. Beyond pyjamas, Kuku’s brand now encompasses an array of chic garments and accessories.
Femi Ajose, seeking to carve his niche, birthed Cute-saint, a gender-neutral brand that challenges conventions. From wide-fitting pants to knit tank tops, Ajose’s creations exude originality and African flair, utilising locally sourced fabrics and traditional techniques, defying the erstwhile preference for foreign-made products.
Rukky Ladoja’s Dye Lab emerged from a desire for localised production and inclusive sizing, epitomised by their signature agbada. Departing from Western sizing norms, Dye Lab embraces a one-size-fits-all ethos, with a supply chain rooted entirely in Nigeria.
Abasiekeme Ukanireh’s Éki Kéré embodies a revival of traditional craftsmanship, infusing raffia palm leaves into her designs, drawing inspiration from her hometown’s rich heritage. Eschewing the mundane, Ukanireh’s eccentric creations breathe new life into raffia garments, captivating audiences with their audacious style.