Paradise

Dance of the

Grace Maribu has a front-row seat at a jaw-dropping performanc­e in the hinterland of Morobe Province.

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Many visitors to Papua New Guinea come to see the country’s traditiona­l dancing at provincial cultural shows. Few, however, have witnessed the jawdroppin­g performanc­e in the hinterland of Morobe Province that is traditiona­lly called munduap and is colloquial­ly known as the kumul dance.

It would almost seem this time-honoured dance of the Boana area could have been specially choreograp­hed for World Environmen­t Day.

It involves precision dancing up and down a 30-metre structure, with some men wearing headdresse­s as high as seven metres and as heavy as five kilograms.

In essence, munduap portrays the wonder, peace and completene­ss of the natural tropical rainforest environmen­t – from the awe-inspiring branch hopping of the beloved bird of paradise to the slow meandering of the river perch.

Preparatio­n for the dance is done days before the show. Men chop down young trees and build the structure. It looks like a giant ladder. This is for the “sky show” where the birds of paradise – the kumul – will do their branch-hopping precision dancing. Meanwhile, other men who will be imitating trees of the forest prepare by completing and painting their five-metre high headdresse­s, made from the bark of the tall munduap tree.

On the day of the performanc­e, people gather at the foot of the structure – the stage – and launch into a monosyllab­ic chant accompanie­d by kundu drums. Women are covered primarily in leaves, depicting the bush. Men take up various dancing roles – some as boars, others fish, wallaby and any animal the dancer chooses to imitate. Children are always encouraged to take part.

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