The big walk
Nicola Gage provides a day-by-day account of the joys and hardships along PNG ’s famous Kokoda Trail.
The porters are the unsung heroes of this trip. They cook all our meals, carry our belongings, pitch our tents and sing us songs.
If you want to catch a glimpse of a bird of paradise, it’s best to search on sunrise. The air hangs still in those first few hours, revealing sounds and smells that can otherwise go unnoticed. I purposely fall behind my trekking group with one of our local porters, Ronnie, to enhance the conditions for a sighting.
I refrain from looking down at my swollen feet and, instead, up at the twisted tree branches towering overhead. In a moment, I see the long, bronzed feathers of a bird of paradise, gently flying over the Kokoda Trail.
We call Ronnie the birdman. You guessed it – it’s because he knows a whole lot about local bird species, from their varying colours to their call signs. I want to soak up his knowledge.
“Shhh,” he whispers, as another bird’s screech ricochets past. It’s the endangered pesquet parrot, he tells us. It’s a black, surlylooking thing with a vulture-like beak and red feathers on its belly and wings. A flight of swallows then joins the chorus. As we catch up to the trekking group, others also listen intently to the surrounds, waiting to see what else the birdman can find.
Ronnie grew up around Kokoda and has walked it more times than he can count. He makes it look easy, attacking the abrupt mountain sides in a broken pair of old shoes held together only by duct tape while carrying my heavy backpack, as well as a smile.
For years, the 96-kilometre journey has been a means of getting him where he needs to be – the only other way to travel is by air. This place is his home; what grows in the fertile soil here feeds his family.
For visitors, especially Australians, it’s a reminder of the fallen. A place where fierce and bloody fighting took place during World War 2, and where brave soldiers lost their lives.
While it has become part of Australian folklore, this remote stretch of Papua New Guinea has also become a serious tourist destination for not only its military history, but also ancient landscapes, unique ecosystems and fascinating cultural heritage. Every year more than 5000 people tackle the trail.
DAY ONE : PORT MORES BY TO DENI KI
My alarm rings at 4.30am, but it makes no difference – I’ve been up all night vomiting. Yep. The sheer thought of tackling the Kokoda Trail has sent my body into a state of panic.
I force myself out of bed and make my way to the airport.
The flight to Popondetta, near the eastern coast, takes only about 30 minutes and, as we fly over the Owen Stanley Range, I look down at the trail and reflect on what we are about to confront on foot.
Not far from here, in July 1942, the Japanese landed on the coast to attack Port Moresby from the north, using the Kokoda Trail. Australian troops were ordered up the trail from the south, with the aim of pushing the Japanese back to the coast. This campaign led to more than 600 Australians dying and over 1600 wounded.
It’s not long before we’re sitting on a wooden bench in the back of an open truck for the three-hour
ride from Popondetta to Kokoda Station, where we will start walking. It’s hot and as we approach the mountains they look big. There’s no turning back now. This is it.
Our group of eight trekkers and 10 porters starts trekking early in the afternoon for the battle site of Deniki, which will be our first overnight stop. The jungle grows denser the further we walk, then we hit our first climb. The ascent is sweaty and arduous – I quickly realise that the next few days are going to be more than just testing.
The Deniki campsite is surrounded by forest and overlooks the steep terrain we just tackled. The porters help us pitch tents before moving straight to the makeshift kitchen – a camp fire – to prepare tonight’s dinner of chicken and rice. As the sun sets on our first day, we chat and listen to the porters play ukuleles and sing.
DAY TWO: DENI KI TO EORA CREE K
This morning we venture through forests so dense they look like they’re covered in green carpet. The vines creep so far up tree trunks it’s hard to discern where the ground ends and the thick roots begin. The legacy of World War 2 is just as tightly woven around this place as the leaves are to these trunks.
Our first stop is the Isurava Memorial, one of the key battle sites of the Kokoda campaign. The sky here is a clear blue and birds are soaring around the valley.
It was here that Australian soldier Bruce Kingsbury, who was awarded a Victoria Cross, was killed as he pushed forward towards the Japanese, firing his Bren gun to hold off the enemy in a courageous counter-attack. The large rock next to which Kingsbury died now makes up part of this memorial. For a moment, standing above it and staring into the
endless valley, I try to put myself silently in his shoes.
After lunch (which includes donuts done on an outdoor fire) our group is on the move again.
Late afternoon, we raise our tents in the valley next to Eora Creek, with the mountains staring down at us on either side. The temperature quickly drops as night falls. We bathe in the freezing creek water, drink hot chocolate and fill our stomachs with pizza.
DAY THREE : EORA CREE K TO NADURI
With a big day ahead, we set off at 6am. With the sun just rising, I can hear only the crunch of branches and shrubs under my mud-stained shoes. Oh, and the birds.
I notice the landscape changing as we increase in altitude. Moss starts to appear on trees and there’s moisture in the air. Different plant types emerge and those that I saw earlier disappear.
About an hour in, we veer off track and down a side path, on suggestion from our guides. It’s dark in the thick foliage but, as I walk futher, I notice a pile of objects among the tree roots. Dozens of unexploded mortar bombs are on the ground.
As we continue, the landscape changes again, morphing into a forest of giant pandanas trees, then mushroom-like fungus caps poking out the sides of tree trunks. Moss covers their tops like pot plants. We’re in what is known as the Moss Forest and have just passed the ridge of Mount Bellamy – the highest point of the trek. I suddenly forget about my aching feet as I begin photographing the different shapes and colours of this magical place.
The Owen Stanley Range forests provide habitat for many endangered and even critically endangered species. I’ve never seen as many butterflies in one place as I have along the Kokoda Trail. I lose track of
time thinking about the types of animals and aquatic insects that may live here. At the same time, however, I neglect to think of my tiring legs. I suddenly find myself tumbling, landing in between two tree roots on the muddy surface. I’m tired. I make it into camp slowly but content at 5.30pm. It’s been nearly a 12-hour day of trekking and my watch tells me I have journeyed 32 kilometres. I think it’s time for bed.
DAY FOUR : NADURI TO MENARI
After I down an extra cup of coffee to get moving, we stop at Efogi and buy some avocados from the locals. Each village we pass gives us the energy to keep moving. The homes are simple yet tidy; you can tell people take pride in their communities. The people are warm and friendly, taking every opportunity to wave and chat to us.
For many of the locals, tourism is their only form of income, so at most stops I buy some crisps and a soft drink – just the sugary boost I need.
Then we begin the steep, hot and dusty walk up to Brigade Hill. This part of the trek is mainly open, with no shade, making it impossible to hide from this piercing sun.
It’s tough. We keep walking up the big hills, just thinking about the top.
Once we reach Brigade Hill, we sit next to each other on the soft grass. The battle here was fought over three days. Rows of poppies are lined here to remember the many soldiers killed.
We reach Menari during midafternoon, which is our destination for the night. It’s a clean, friendly community with kids running around on the oval.
I’m told a plane lands on the small grass airstrip once a week to bring deliveries to this isolated place.
After tending to my blistered feet we sit down for dinner and play some card games under the lights of our head torches.
DAY FIVE : MEN ARI TO IORI ABAIWA VIL AGE
I knew Kokoda was going to test my physical strength but it’s also about mental endurance.
Today we are climbing a mountain with nine false peaks. Nine.
We sit under a shady tree at the first ‘peak’ to have a snack, contemplating whether to have an early lunch or push on. We decide on the latter, so we grab our backpacks, take a deep breath and keep moving.
Now, descending in altitude, the temperature rises. And so does the time – we’ve been on the move since sunrise, it’s 2pm and we are yet to eat lunch.
On the unforgiving descent to Ofi Creek Crossing I need a break, so I sit on a log and process my next move. Not long after, we make it to our lunch spot, where the guides have made a cake.
Despite still being half a day away from the finish, arriving at Ioriabaiwa village at the end of day feels like the end of the road. We are exhausted but happy to be welcomed by the villagers.
It’s a stunning location surrounded by sharp mountains and the sky turns a calming pink as the sun sets. From a distance we can see Imita Ridge and know that, from there, Owers Corner is not far.
Our group is re-energised as we play with local kids and relax around the camp fire. Even with a niggling pain shooting up my foot, I am ready for what tomorrow brings.
DAY SI X: IORIABAIWA VILAGE TO OWERS CORNER
It’s hard to wake up this morning. My legs are stiff and the sleeping bag is warm. But knowing we’re so close to the finish pulls me up and into the day.
I finish off a bowl of hot porridge, pack up my belongings and again, set off through the dense jungle.
The undulating landscape is drying out as we head closer to Port Moresby. Thick tree roots hang from the canopies above, like a series of ropes that Tarzan would travel on.
We cross creek after creek, balancing on stone trails popping up through the gushing water.
Our last hurdle is the steep, unforgiving climb from Goldie River to Owers Corner, where our transport awaits. Step by step, the wooden Kokoda arch appears bigger and bigger above the ridge.
We’re home.
The porters are the unsung heroes of this trip. They cook all our meals (simple options, but that’s all we need), carry our belongings, pitch our tents and sing us songs.
The uniqueness of Kokoda is that it brings together history, wildlife and a physical challenge. It’s emotional. All of these aspects combined with the generous warmth of Papua New Guinean people creates an experience that sits in the cannon of great walks around the world.