My PNG
A trip to the market
There was a metre-long live crocodile on sale for the tidy sum of PGK50.
Ihad heard on the grapevine that tilapia (fish) and tiger prawns were in abundance in Angoram, in the East Sepik Province. Being the skeptic that I am (my name is Thomas after all), I wanted to see for myself if these claims were true.
A couple of my friends had opted to join me in my quest, having been caught up in the moment. Our excitement was palpable – one look at us and you’d think the circus was coming to town.
We arrived at Angoram along a pothole-laden road cutting through a field of kunai on both sides. Several houses graced the roadside, badly in need of a fresh coat of paint. Our driver reduced speed, mindful of the throngs of churchgoers.
We passed what appeared to be a warehouse under construction and parked opposite the police station, facing the market.
I took a good look around, soaking in the atmosphere.
To my left, the land dipped steeply to the banks of the mighty Sepik River – whose width was akin to a small lake.
The site of the old market could be seen from my elevated position. The move to the current site came about because of the Sepik bursting its banks.
Like most markets in Papua New Guinea, the new market is bustling with activity – PMV trucks loading baskets of smoked fish, while simultaneously offloading cartons of storebought goods; buyers trudging at a snail’s pace, weaving between vendors and scrutinising everything on display; sellers displaying their wares on pieces of tarpaulin, swatting away insects with leafy shrubs. There was even a sizeable crowd gathered around a lone preacher expounding the need for salvation.
Following my friends’ lead, we traversed the makeshift aisles twice but, unfortunately, we came up empty. Apparently most – if not all – of the and tiger prawns were carted off to the markets of Wewak and Maprik. However, there was a metre-long live crocodile on sale for the tidy sum of PGK50.
Dejected, I wandered the length of the market. One of my friends must have sensed my disappointment because he pressed a parcel into my hand, explaining in one word, “breakfast”.
I opened the wrapping to unveil sago wrapped around two medium-sized fish. Although it was far less than what I had hoped for, I graciously accepted his offer.
‘My PNG’ is a column in which Papua New Guineans write about where they live, or about a part of the country they know and love. If you wish to contribute, email paradise@ businessadvantageinternational.com.